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Routes in Tangen Towers

DC Boy T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
East Face/Upper Tangen Tower T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Hop, Skip, & Jump T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hoppy Birthday T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
In Focus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pictureman Crack/Lower Tangen Tower T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Face Right/Lower Tangen Tower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Standard Route/Lower Tangen Tower T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Stay Focused T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tangen Tunnel route T
Thumper S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unnamed Hueco 1 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Zacchaeus T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Gerry Roach and Barb Inyan, 1984??
Page Views: 108 total, 1/month
Shared By: George Bell on Jun 13, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

The Lower Tangen Tower is the overhanging rock you pass under on the Royal Arch Trail after passing the base of the Fourth Flatiron. Despite being near this major trail, the rock sees few ascents as it is not easy to solo up and down.

The first few moves are the crux, which is an awkward offwidth, although you may be able to find a more elegant way to do it. Soon the difficulty eases to 4th class. You can belay on a ledge at 60', or continue left up a ramp and continue to the summit. The entire climb can be done in one 120' pitch.

To descend, rap 40' west into the notch between the Tangen Towers. On rappel you may notice 2 bolts of some unknown route on the overhanging West Face of the Lower Tower.

Location

Locate a wide flaring crack on the far west side of the South Face of the Lower Tangen Tower. This crack is the leftmost of two cracks and is only about 100' off the Royal Arch Trail.

Protection

Light rack to #3 Camalot.

Photos

George Bell
Boulder, CO
 
George Bell   Boulder, CO
 
I did this route again this morning. A #3 Camalot works well in protecting the first move. You can face climb to the right of the wide crack (see photo), but we both though this a few notches harder than 5.5. Jan 8, 2003