Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Warren Teissier, George Bell, 1/14/03
Page Views: 509 total · 3/month
Shared By: Warren Teissier on Jan 13, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details


We were unable to find this route in any of the climbing guides, so we are listing it as a first ascent. I doubt that it has never been climbed, but based on the roughness of the crack. it is clear it has not seen much traffic.

The crack is great for jamming and eats pro.

Reach the base of the Tangen tower as described in the rock section. Walk West around the South side (left) of the rock. You will pass a small boulder leaning against the lower South face below an incipient crack (this is the South Face right route from Rossiter, 5.9), continue up past two slots (the second cleaner slot being the Roach route.)

As the face turns right around an arete you will see two thin shallow parallel cracks that fail to reach the ground. The right crack disappears after a few feet but the left crack continues to the ridge above your head.

Start between the two cracks and make a couple of bouldery moves that will allow you to reach the left crack. From there, life gets easier, work up the crack until you reach the ridge of a sloping ramp. Crank up onto the ramp and head left for some 10 feet to an easy headwall that leads to the summit.

Descent - Make an exposed short rap to the West from threaded slings.


Standard Flatiron rack with an emphasis on finger and hand sizes.


Isn't it common knowledge on this site that the star rating is only applicable to an area. North Table Mountain has no comparison to Eldorado Mountain. Flagstaff does not compare to Lumpy Ridge. Eldorado Canyon is quite different from Clear Creek Canyon. Morrison is different from the Black Canyon. Longs Peak is different from Unaweep Canyon. Do you get it now?

-fellow coward (with a little intelligence) Jan 15, 2003
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
Calling all AC's: feel free to do the climb and down-star to your heart's content!

Note also that length of a climb has nothing to do with the number of stars. Check out all the 3 star boulder problems in the Flatirons! Perhaps it is more realistic to compare this problem to the Bongo Boulder, Sputnik One, etc. These too are *** climbs ... Jan 15, 2003
Warren Teissier
Warren Teissier  
AC, felt like three stars to me.

That's all that matters.

When you get the balls to put your name on your posts and contribute info to the site then I will be more inclined to have a discussion with you.

In the meantime your opinion is irrelevant...

WT Jan 15, 2003
Hello, this is Anonymous Coward speaking

I apologise for the negative tone of my comment, which wasnt a dig at the 3-star rating as much as at the patronizing and incorrect argument offered by anonymous coward #2. I promise to make only nice comments from here on.

Jan 17, 2003
Warren and George - thanks for adding a new quality route to the Flatirons!

Matt made a good point and I also can't help but wonder if all the AC folks realize that Warren and George have climbed, between them, literally hundreds, if not thousands of routes in the Flatirons and what do they do? They go looking for more! Hooray for the spirit of adventure!!

Jan 18, 2003

Sorry, that last post was quite stupid on my part, too much beer. What I mean is that climbing grade has nothing to do with posting anonymously. I thank George and Warren for their addition. While many anonymous postings are annoying, they are a fact of the internet that will never go away and that one must deal with. There is no reason to get so upset about anonymous postings, take them with a grain of salt, anyone can post anonymously and sometimes it is quite funny, being flamed is a risk you take posting to the internet, a righteous crusade will feel good but do nothing, better to take things with a grain of salt.=ac Jan 20, 2003
Casey Bernal
Wheat Ridge, CO
Casey Bernal   Wheat Ridge, CO
Ah the ACs are coming out.

I am AC #2 (from I was trying to be a smartass and I guess it worked. I wanted to be direct about this because I have a rated route I did the FA of with 3 stars and felt it was justified. I still stand by my statements about "climbing it and rating it yourself". I apologize if I offended anyone.

Casey Bernalcaseybernal@hotmail.com Jan 21, 2003
Warren Teissier
Warren Teissier  
Alright, so it's been a week since George and I posted a couple of new routes on this obscure piece of rock in the Flatirons.

Since it seems that the flaming has subsided, I figured I'd crawl out of the asbestos suit and philosophize for a couple of seconds:

The posting of this route, that I dared rate 3 stars, attracted the attention of:

- Four different Anonymous Cowards some attacking the route, others attacking the previous AC, and some of them explaining to me what to expect from posting in the net (thanks for the guidance)... Two of them were eventually prodded out of their anonymity as it turned out

- Replies by the two original posters that should have known better than to do so

- Postings by four friends of the original posters coming to their rescue and trashing some other friends that, as it turned out, had masquerated as AC's ;-)

-We had a British Prime minister impersonator/ Anonymous Coward whose original posting identity is now being ferreted by those climbers with superioir internet know how

- A request to show up somewhere and measure the size of our Penises

- And of course, Lorena's promise to show up at the above mentioned measuring contest to chop off our Pride Appendages with a Dull Butter Knife... I have never met Lorena and fail to understand why she'd want to chop off my Willie, but I diggress...

While all this happenned, not a single person went to try the routes. No feedback on actual facts...

On the good news side, reading all this nonesense jogged Greg Hand's memory and he remembered doing some first ascents on this and some nearby rocks in the 80's. He posted 6 new routes! some of them damn hard! and yes! some of them 3 stars! Brace yourself Greg...

So, I look forward to the day when someone will accidentally stumble onto the routes and climb them, perhaps even enjoy it! and if I am really lucky even get feedback based on the experience.

In the meantime be safe and stay away from "Lorena the Willie Chopper" and her Dull Butter Knife

Cheers, WT Jan 22, 2003
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Did this route today and enjoyed it, but it was, as said, short. The moves were bouldery at the bottom, and the grade will depend upon finding the key feet and upon your height. A very tall person could grab the bomber from tip-toes and skip the crux move. A felt the grade was 5.9.

I find that when I go do a new route, I generally get more out of it for the 'adventure' and for the feeling of accomplishment. Maybe that accounts for the stars here, I don't know. I think of this more like a boulder problem, where difficulty and complexity relative to ability might be what generates the rating, not length or asethetics. I can't be sure what others think, but that's for me; stars are subjective, and I didn't think this line was classic. I give it a 1-star. Worth doing, but not a destination. I probably wouldn't go back for it.

5.9 boulder problem to a 5.7 climb. Nice though. May 30, 2003
Bill Wright
Bill Wright  
I enjoyed this route. It's more of a boulder problem with a short scramble on top of it, but definitely worth doing if you're in the area. I'd do them again. This area is nice and secluded, yet only 200 feet from the trail. May 30, 2003