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Routes in The Ghetto

After Hours V7 7A+
Anacostia V4 6B
Dr. Slutpants V7 7A+
Hueco Simulator V4 6B
Hunting Humans V8 7B
Lip Traverse V2 5+
S + M V4 6B
Skin Poppin' Slut V4 6B
Spina Bifida V5 6C
Tabula Rasa V9 7C
Trolling for Skank V10 7C+
Underdog V5 6C
Type: Boulder, 20 ft
FA: Matt Samet
Page Views: 1,880 total, 10/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Sep 25, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: Details
Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

Dr. Slutpants, though a bit of an eliminate, is one of the best problems at the Ghetto - absolutely sustained crimping on a bullet-hard shield of rock.

It takes the very leftmost line of holds out the Underdog Cave, sharing a start with Underdog but finishing on a specific set of lip holds that are often ticked (if not, ask a local for the beta).

Begin as for Underdog, but instead of levering up to the pebble from the left-hand gaston, move into a crescent-shaped crimp high and left. Match up, power for a sidepull cup, reel it in and get a high left crimp/pebble, then snag the little two-finger pocket (with a sharp tooth) just below the huge bath-tub. Now, still avoiding the bathtub, shoot way left for a pink pebble (the original pebble, a barely-attached finger bucket that somehow stayed on for 6 or 7 years of travel, has since broken off -- anyone know who was it?) then move past the bathtub for crimpers on the vertical panel over the lip.

Stand up, and step off.

Protection

A thick T-shirt

Photos

Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
Rich, indeed, this seems to square with things reported here and feels about right for those things I have jumped on as well. 8a.nu seemed to be trying to make the comparision across the board but as indicated in the other comment that was evidently not the intent. Oct 1, 2002
The ratings scale on this website (mentioned above) is correct in comparing the V scale to YDS or the French (Font) scale. But it doesn't compare YDS to the French route scale. Hey, to confuse things further, the French bouldering scale has a separate rating system for traverses (traverse scale) or straight up boulder problems (bloc scale). Surprisingly, the climbingboulder.com rating scale doesn't even mention the John Gill B-system, which should be noted at least for historical purposes. Oct 1, 2002
UMMM

climbingboulder.com/resourc…

YEA Oct 1, 2002
The grade conversion table at the 8a.nu site is a bit misleading and poorly drawn. They are not trying to say that 5.13a is similar to a V10. They are only comparing YDS route grades to the French route grades. And comparing V-scale bouldering grades to French bouldering grades. The French boulder scale and French route scales are different, though they use the same number system (8a, 8a+, 8b, etc.). I would agree with the above comment regarding a rough conversion of V grades to YDS. Oct 1, 2002
Howdy Richard- I saw this scale in one of the mags:

V0 = 5.10V1 = 5.11-V2 = 5.11V3 = 5.11+V4 = 5.12-V7 = 5.13-V10 = 5.14-V13 = 5.15-

I'd be interested if any local hardcore bouldering types agree with this. Oct 1, 2002
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
General Question: The web site 8a.nu has drawn up a table comparing grades for boulder problems and routes. I think the chart under rates the V scale as it is used in the US. How do the bouldering masters equate YDS and V-scale? Sep 30, 2002