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Routes in The Ghetto

After Hours V7 7A+
Anacostia V4 6B
Dr. Slutpants V7 7A+
Hueco Simulator V4 6B
Hunting Humans V8 7B
Lip Traverse V2 5+
S + M V4 6B
Skin Poppin' Slut V4 6B
Spina Bifida V5 6C
Tabula Rasa V9 7C
Trolling for Skank V10 7C+
Underdog V5 6C
Type: Boulder, 20 ft
FA: Jim Surette
Page Views: 1,509 total, 8/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Aug 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: Details
Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

For all intents and purposes, this is the central line punching straight out the middle of the lower right sector of the Upper Ghetto. Coated in chalk and eye-catchingly direct, this is a Ghetto classic extraordinaire.

Walk about 30 feet along the base of the slot from the staging area until you're eye level with the twin bathtub/huecos. Now sit. A hard tug on miserable pebble/crimps and a powerful throw gain the huecos. Head straight up an incipient crack for another five feet until you're at a sloping horizontal.

The original problem, and the V7 way, takes the leftmost set of holds off the horizontal, hitting an incut razor for the left hand and pawing a scoop for the right before some trickery helps you power up into a sloping gaston. Surf right to a good horn or hueco, and punch for the lip.

You can either step off or continue along the lip for a linkage pump.

An easier advent, sometimes mistakenly referred to as Ghetto Boys, climbs straight up and slightly right from the horizontal via a friendlier sequence (V6) and is the path of least resistance straight out the cave. It's probably best to think of this as the easy finish to After Hours.

Protection

A spotter and a thick T-shirt.

Photos

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