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Routes in South Facing

Ants In My Pants S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Cemetery Gates S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Chicken Soup S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Cowboys From Hell S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Music for the Dead S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Procession S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Requiem S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Stevie Damboise
Page Views: 656 total, 4/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Sep 13, 2002
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

While this route only receives one star in the new Rifle guidebook (as opposed to its neighbor Soup Nazi, which gets three stars), it is a superior route to the traversy, mossy, slightly-contrived Soup Nazi and should receive its dues as the best route on the wall.

This is the 2nd route from the left, and like all the other lower tier routes, moves through blocky roofs and underclings for the first 40 feet before giving way to a long, technical wall with overlaps and funky, "slab" cruxes.

The route as it was originally conceived ends at a double-bolt anchor halfway up the wall (with a bolted extension above -- still unclimbed?) but climbs as a much nicer and longer pitch if you hook a right at the 7th bolt and move into the top 2/3 of Soup Nazi.

Begin on the left side of the nice, blue wall (pre-clip the 2nd bolt), and power up through underclings. Step left under a bulge and move back right at the 4th bolt to engage the crux, a fussy move to a little cube. Sustained climbing leads to a good shake out hole, from which you power up and right into the right-trending arch. Bust across the arch (desperate), ummph up and over, then amble up the long face above, taking care of loose rock above the last bolt.

Protection

14 draws and a 60-meter rope.

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