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Routes in South Facing

Ants In My Pants S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Cemetery Gates S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Chicken Soup S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Cowboys From Hell S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Music for the Dead S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Procession S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Requiem S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Erik Johnson
Page Views: 755 total · 4/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Aug 6, 2002
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Music for the Dead is the first route you encounter on the Lower Tier itself (not to be confused with the big sunny slab just left of the Skull Cave, which has two long face routes).

From the parking area, follow the trail straight back, stepping over an enormous anthill. Music for the Dead will be on your left, about 30 feet past a horrendously chossy, left-trending arch. It is the furthest route left on the wall.

This is a good tick for boulderers, as the crux comes early and the climbing up high, while tricky, is mostly vertical. I think most people pre-clip the second bolt.

Bust a series of hard moves right off the deck (V6/7?) until you surmount the bulging wall and hit the vertical plaque above. A longer-than-it-looks vertical slab, with occasional bulge and overlap cruxes, leads you to the anchors. Expect sporty climbing and less-than-secure moves on the upper headwall.

Protection

12 draws and a rope.

Photos

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Greaser  
Good, but stout.

Can't believe more people don't climb this.

Appears to have lost some foot holds on the left side of the crux (tick marks leading to feet that are no longer there and fresher rock scars remain). Anyone have any info on this? Aug 23, 2004
Ben Walburn  
 
This route is no longer the first route on the left... also, it has been re-bolted. Great route! Aug 7, 2015

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