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Routes in 5. Iron Side Wall

Baby Doe S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Cloud S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Climax S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Glory Hole S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Last Chance S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Molly Brown S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
One Thin Line S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Prospector S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Red Dawn S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Silver Dollar S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Spindrift S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Twin Flakes S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Lance Hadfield
Page Views: 1,802 total, 9/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This route climbs very solid pink granite through 7 clips to a 2-bolt anchor. The lower section moves through positive incut holds to a series of laybacks to the right of the bolts, finishing at a dog-dish type hold at the fourth bolt. The route then traverses left a few feet before entering the crux, a couple long moves over the bulge. This crux will be considerably harder for people shorter than 5'7". After the crux, a couple 5.11 moves to the anchors! Basically, this entire route moves through solid good holds with good feet, but gets its grade from the powerful moves at the crux...have fun.

Protection

This is a great sport pitch and one of the few 5.12s, also it is one of only a couple steeper routes on the wall. There are 7 bolts to a 2-bolt coldshut anchor. You can easily set up a top rope by climbing Twin Flakes (5.10b) to the right. you will lower right over Glory Hole's anchors....

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Jeff Welch
Denver, CO
  5.12a
Jeff Welch   Denver, CO
  5.12a
Great movement! Doesn't get 4 stars only because the natural line of holds kinda leads into Twin Flakes in the middle... it's possible to climb directly, but doing so probably adds a letter grade (and another crux).

It could use a rebolting though, the bolts (as with most on this wall) are looking a little tired. Jul 13, 2010