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Routes in 5. Iron Side Wall

Baby Doe S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Cloud S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Climax S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Glory Hole S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Last Chance S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Molly Brown S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
One Thin Line S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Prospector S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Red Dawn S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Silver Dollar S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Spindrift S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Twin Flakes S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 125 ft
FA: Unpublished
Page Views: 249 total, 1/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Jan 31, 2002
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

150 feet left of the point where the trail meets the wall is a collection of one pitch sport routes taking off from a flat spot in the talus. Several routes right of the obvious dihedral with a trad crack inside is a long route up a clean, juggy yellowish wall. This is Last Chance, and it provides one of the best sport pitches on the rock. The angle backs off after the mid point, but this does not diminish an excellent route. Last Chance has good stone, is well protected, and offers fine climbing - well worth the trip.

Protection

Tons of draws (18) and two ropes. This pitch is 125 feet long.

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michalm
Boulder, CO
  5.11-
michalm   Boulder, CO
  5.11-
Wow! This is one of the best pitches of its grade and style imaginable! Here are 125' of fun, technical edging on beautiful rock. It is really confounding why some of the mediocre routes nearby get so much more traffic than this masterpiece. This is one of the rare single pitches that gets 5 stars in my book. With some new bolts, this route will become an ultra-classic.

The movement is aesthetic, continuous, and satisfying, the rock quality is incredible after the first 12-15', and the rock is gorgeous. Between the fluorescent green and yellow lichen down low to the golden rock just above to the pastel streaked, mirror-polished plaques up high, this route is really something special. The best part is that you can't see a single one of the perfect edges until you have climbed to it.

As a note, a 70m should reach on rappel with stretch. We used an 80 and had a comfortable toprope. Jun 18, 2017
erin demarco  
 
Climb this route! Far more enjoyable 5.11 climbing than Rad Lad, esp if you're 5'4" and have a -1 ape– no stopper moves! Take the dirt trail through the talus until the dirt trail peters out, look to the right for a big, flat boulder close to the wall just before getting into the talus field. Really fantastic movement and edging, not even just for the area but all around. Jun 18, 2017
BJ Sbarra
Carbondale, CO
 
BJ Sbarra   Carbondale, CO
 
A single 70m worked for us, but if your rope is short at all, you might not get all the way down. Jun 8, 2012