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Routes in The Quartz Garden

Garden Weasel S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Little Wing T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rusted Razor S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Pain and Mills, 1994
Page Views: 100 total, 1/month
Shared By: Michael Walker on Aug 10, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Rusted Razor is a short, high quality route set in a beautiful mountain setting, far away from any crowds.

The route begins from a wild, rocky gully that drops down from the Quartz Garden plateau, offering grand views of the valley below. The route can be approached from below, scrambling up from a trail that heads north from Ironsides, or from above via a trail that passes the Cube on its way to the Quartz Garden. The approach from above is perhaps easier, as descending the gully was much more fun than ascending. Follow the directions as for the Quartz Garden, but instead of veering north out into the open plateau, head south through the forest and find the gap between the large rock formactions that make up the south side of the Quartz Garden.

Rusted Razor scales the face of the rock island that makes up the right side of the rocky gully.

Five bolts head up the wall, the crux 5.8 moves at the last bolt on the headwall. Although rather short, the rock texture and quality, fun moves and aesthetic position made this a crowd pleaser.

Protection

5 bolts to a two bolt anchor.

Photos

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Luis Barandiaran
Longmont, CO
Luis Barandiaran   Longmont, CO
My brother Danny, who went to NOLS and was taught this, informs me that this advice might be dangerous. The cave can become a "spark-gap" if the formation is struck by lightning, hitting people in the cave. Plus, it's always best to disperse, so that if someone is hit the others can render aid. Just food for thought.... Apr 28, 2007
Michael Walker
Loveland, CO
 
Michael Walker   Loveland, CO
 
BTW - if a lightning storm hits (and they come QUICK at the Iron Clads) there is a small cave at the South end of this formation. Enough room for 6. Comes with a view. Jun 23, 2002