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Routes in The Quartz Garden

Garden Weasel S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Little Wing T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rusted Razor S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Sport, 50 ft
FA: Pain and Mills, 1994
Page Views: 76 total · 0/month
Shared By: Michael Walker on Aug 10, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Just down the hill from Rusted Razor, a good-sized ledge juts out over the rocky gully with a steep, smooth face rising above. Little Wing starts from this ledge and follows three bolts up the pretty face to the top of the rock island. The setting alone affords two stars, but the (current!) need for Derry-do to set up an anchor at the top and its short stature may detract from its overall quality in some climber's eyes.

The first bolt is a high one and is compounded by small holds for the clip. With a hearty sigh, continue up the challenging face past another bolt to easier ground. At the final bolt, it is possible to escape left to ease the second crux to 8+, or continue straight up at 10b.

This route could be called Missing Wing, for as of Summer 2001, the bolts at the top were missing hangers. But, pre-inspection after an ascent of Rusted Razor will ensure you bring the right gear to back up a couple of "Stopper Enabled" bolts for a safe anchor.

Protection

Four bolts to a two bolt anchor. The steep face has three bolts, then decision time at the last bolt. (Inspect the current condition of the anchor before climbing this one!)

Photos

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Route still has missing hangers as of today. Gear anchor on top is a slung horn/small cams. It is easy to rap off the anchors of Rusted Razor rather than walk off.

Good climb! Solid rock and nice verticality for the first 15 feet. Aug 1, 2004