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Routes in The Juggernaut Area
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Bat Face S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Deeds of Darkness V0 4 PG13 |
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Exit the Womb T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Pebbles and Bam Bam S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Pipe Dreams S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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RPM S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Seem to Seam S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Slab Happy TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Super Conductor S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Sport |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,258 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Darin Lang on May 26, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Historical seasonal raptor closures with 2023 updates
Details
Per Castlewood Canyon: there is a new closure for nesting raptors this year: Five and Dime will be closed March 1st through July 31st. If you have any questions please feel free to reach out to me, Rachel Chaffee (Park Ranger) at dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.us or by phone at 303-688-5242.
Per Garrett Garner-Wells:
the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:
The following climbing route closures are currently in place:
- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.
As of 2020:
There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Per Garrett Garner-Wells:
the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:
The following climbing route closures are currently in place:
- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.
As of 2020:
There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Description
This is on the lower tier of the far left side of the Juggernaut area, located just around the corner (if approaching from Bat Face) just left of an arete, about in line with the "pointy" pine tree on the left side of the photo below. Ascend slightly overhanging rock past three bolts to the top of the lower tier. I couldn't find an anchor on the top after a very brief inspection, and so I lowered off the third bolt. YMMV.
This seemed pretty hard for a 5.10, albeit for only two moves. Then again, I'm pretty weak. The crux is clipping the second bolt while hanging off a "the clock is ticking" rounded cobble. It is easier from the second bolt to the top.
This seemed pretty hard for a 5.10, albeit for only two moves. Then again, I'm pretty weak. The crux is clipping the second bolt while hanging off a "the clock is ticking" rounded cobble. It is easier from the second bolt to the top.
Photos
3 Comments