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Routes in The Juggernaut Area

Bat Face S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Exit the Womb T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pebbles and Bam Bam S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pipe Dreams S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Seem to Seam S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Slab Happy TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Super Conductor S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, TR, 40 ft
FA: [approx 1989 Tom Hanson]
Page Views: 681 total, 4/month
Shared By: Luc Gruenther on Nov 3, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

On the same piece of rock as Bat Face (below the powerlines), just a few feet left and around the corner, is this fun and powerful, south-facing route. Start on top of the boulder, where you can clip the first bolt, then literally jump to the two slopey start holds. Crank through the sweet, technical, powerful moves to a decent rest in the middle of the route. Avoid using the arete to the far right of the bolts. Finish up with another steep section of rock.

The route is extremely well protected. If you want to toprope the route, the anchors are easily accessed via the north rim of the canyon. Walk east (climber's right) 50-75 yards to access the rim via easy 5th class rock, or go west (climber's left) a short distance and scramble to the top.

In the picture below, Seem to Seam is on the most obvious orange face of rock.

Protection

5 bolts to 2-bolt anchor at the lip.

Photos

I could have saved myself a lot of trouble by reading the "jump to the sloping holds" beta *before* I tried the route. Any start that doesn't involve a jump seems significantly more difficult than 12a. Really cool line with good rock, tricky, sequential moves, and nice position. Perhaps one of these days I'll be able to link it up. Jun 3, 2003
ROC
Englewood, CO
ROC   Englewood, CO
Awesome climb with a fun start. Tried this route a couple of times 'bout 3 years ago and couldn't pull past the 1st ledge. Did it on top rope last weekend and got half way before i had to take. Great climb, can't wait to link it up! Mar 10, 2003