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Routes in Sphinx Rock

Black Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cheops S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crunch, The T,TR V0- 4-
Exit Stage Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Joint Venture T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Lickety Split S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Locksmith aka Dihedral Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Return to Forever T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Slug AKA Summit Route 1960, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
So Honed Yet So Stoned S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sphinx Crack T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Talus Food Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Thinner T A3
Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,265 total, 7/month
Shared By: Chris Carr on Apr 23, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Closed: Private Property - Sphinx Rock is on private property Details


This route follows the right edge of the slab that cuts the Sphinx in half. On the appoach, you'll see the obvious slab facing you. Walk up the ramp as far as you want or until you find a level place to stach your gear, then head up and right on the friction slab. The first two bolts are of rather poor quality. This climb can be done in one or two pitches (a 60m rope is nice).


There are 7 bolts plus two, two bolt anchors. Quickdraws are all that you'll need.
Bill Duncan
Jamestown, CO
Bill Duncan   Jamestown, CO
In case someone decides to clean up the retro anchors at the top of this route, I just wanted to suggest a good method for removing bolts that does not harm the rock. It's unfortunate that some folks first attempt to saw through the stud (chopping). Start by using some old blue jeans or a piece of denim or other tough fabric to protect the rock around the bolt to be removed. If the bolt does not have a hangar, you will need to add one. Using a flat bar and a hammer, with the fabric protecting the rock carefully tap the flat bar underneath the hangar. Continue to tap and pry until the bolt comes out. If for some reason the bolt refuses to come all of the way out, THEN saw the stud carefully as close to the rock as you can, and use a punch to tap/countersink the remains of the stud back into the hole. Use some epoxy and rock dust of the same color to fill the hole so that it is invisible to the casual observer. Aug 23, 2007
Andrew Ingraham
Andrew Ingraham   Conifer
Just plain fun. The first two bolts just might catch you. The rest are bomber. Top anchors still had no hangers.... I don't really see the point in taking the hangers and leaving the bolts.... I would second what someone else above said "finish the job". The bolts are more of eyesore now than when they had hangers on them. There's a good natural anchor up top if you bring a couple of long slings. May 8, 2006
Derek Lawrence
Derek Lawrence   Bailey
Climbed this yesterday. Bolts ARE there at the end of the 1st pitch. The first 2 bolts are still old 1/4 inchers (2nd one has a leeper hanger that spins). Still need gear for the top anchor (medium nuts, small-medium cams). This is a fun climb that never gets old.... Jan 9, 2006
Jay Hippel
Denver, CO
Jay Hippel   Denver, CO
There are no bolts for any belays on this route. 1st or second pitch. the first two bolts on the route are sorry as well, homemade with nails/pins. To reach the top you must have at least a 60m and belay at the top of the approach ramp before it gets steep. You can belay with small-med cams on top. This route is not for the faint of heart. Very runout to the first bolt. No handholds, just smearing feet. If you make for a hole 3/4 way up, you will miss a bolt but can get a #1 in the hole (it's also the only legitimate handhold). Scared the hell out of me when I did it. Jan 29, 2004
Scouted out Likety Split yesterday. Couldn't see any anchors on the top of second pitch at all. Bit of trash and broken glass around the base of the pitch. May 1, 2003
I was up on Lickety Split and saw that some one had stripped both of the bolts on the top of the second pitch and then attemped to saw off one of the bolts. This person only got about 2/3's of the way through one of them. The second stud seemed to be normal. I would like to suggest that this person finish the job and cut it clean, some one could put on their own hangers and rip the stud of the bolt in two.

If you are going to climb Lickety Split, bring some smaller tricams and skip those suspect bolts. Jan 20, 2003
Derek Lawrence
Derek Lawrence   Bailey
This route was rebolted (retrobolted?) a few years back, but rather than just replacing the old bolts, whoever did it decided to replace all but the bottom 2 bolts and to add an extra bolt above the 1st belay and the bolts on top. The top belay is easily set up with medium-sized gear (2-3 pieces) and the walk-off is not bad - no need to rap. The top bolts should be completely pulled and the holes patched as they are NOT needed and were never there until a few years ago. The actual route though is a lot of fun! Just be careful getting past the 1st two bolts (the 1st bolt is about 40-50 ft up)! Apr 24, 2002
Chris Carr  
Just some FYI for everyone... someone has taken the rap hangers off of the bolts at the top of this route. This just means that you cannot rap the route; to belay, just walk off to the left and belay from the ground. -Cheers Apr 24, 2002