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Routes in Sphinx Rock

Black Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cheops S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crunch, The T,TR V0- 4-
Exit Stage Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Joint Venture T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Lickety Split S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Locksmith aka Dihedral Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Return to Forever T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Slug AKA Summit Route 1960, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
So Honed Yet So Stoned S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sphinx Crack T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Talus Food Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Thinner T A3
Type: Trad
FA: Bruce Morris & Eric Weinstein 2/77
Page Views: 1,144 total, 6/month
Shared By: Brian Milhaupt on Apr 23, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Closed: Private Property - Sphinx Rock is on private property Details

Description

An excellent route located uphill to the right from Sphinx crack. This crack is easy to find as it forms the opposite side of the Sphinx fracture. Surmount overhang 8' off the ground. Continue to second overhang (crux) and enjoy continuous but easier hands and finger climbing shortly after. Belay is not fixed so save a few 2" pieces for the top, a bodyweight belay could suffice.

Protection

many stoppers and TCUs, single Camalots 1-3

Photos

Deaun Schovajsa
  5.11a
Deaun Schovajsa  
  5.11a
This route would get 4 stars if not for the poor rock quality above the 2nd roof. Still, fun climbing when it was open! Aug 27, 2008
Shane Zentner
Colorado
  5.11a
Shane Zentner   Colorado
  5.11a
Difficult climbing through the roof as I struggled and fell. #1-#3 Camalots. Tape is indeed helpful as this granite can get painful and nasty. Bring extra gear for the top as there are no anchors. Sep 6, 2005
Bruce Morris
Belmont, CA
  5.10d
Bruce Morris   Belmont, CA
  5.10d
Maybe the late Eric Weinstein did name it "Return to Forever". He was into Chic and Stanley and all that fusion stuff during the late '70s. Oct 7, 2004
Bruce Morris
Belmont, CA
  5.10d
Bruce Morris   Belmont, CA
  5.10d
This is the route that we named "Romantic Warrior" when Eric Weinstein and I did the FA back in March 1977. Thought this was in a magazine somewhere? We rated it 5.10d.Bruce MorrisBelmont, California Oct 7, 2004
Dave  
This is one of the better climbs in the platte. As a local resedent I spend a lot of time on it. The second roof is definitely the crux and the first roof, while hard is not. The first roof should be easy if you're tall, but if you're fifteen and 5'4" like me, you'll get it with a little examination and technique. Gear gets a little sketchy after the second roof, but if you're leading it and make it past the secound roof, the following 5.9/8 climbing should be nothing. Aug 3, 2003
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
5.10d
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
5.10d
On the redpoint. Trick is to not plug up your jams with gear, and move quickly through insecure jams... probably general knowledge, but this climb is where it really made a difference for me. Jun 30, 2003
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
5.10d
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
5.10d
I believe this route is called 'Return to Forever'.10d if on the redpoint, 11a on the onsight. First roof off the deck gets .10+.There is a great .75 at the crux if you know where to place it. Place gear well in the splatte crystals, to prevent them from pulling...

Awesome route, my 'first' .11 trad redpoint. Jun 30, 2003
Caleb  
Everyone told me that the first overhang isn't the crux, but I beg to differ. Bryson, you're right, I left some blood on that climb! Apr 21, 2003
TBD
TBD  
My opinion is that the first roof is mid 10. There are some sinker jams after one thin move. The next roof is very strenuous and feet are thin. I ended up doing a lay back/ high step into a flare in the crack to pull through it. I recommend and #4 and #5 ball nut for this section, a green alien helps as well. Oct 21, 2002
Ben Mottinger

  5.11a
Ben Mottinger    
  5.11a
I thought the crux was pulling the first overhang. After that, the moves are straight forward, even if strenuous. I agree w/ Bryson that tape is a really good idea. A lot of the jams are flared, but you can get a good bite on the sharp crystals with some tape (or your flesh).

I thought the overall experience on this one was great, but the rock quality isn't tops. Oct 13, 2002
This pitch is far more enjoyable with tape, those Pikes Peak crystals put a hurtin' on the hands. Hot Flashes is still waiting for the f.f.a. of pitch two; down climb the Sphinx Crack route.... May 16, 2002
Brian Milhaupt
Golden, CO
 
Brian Milhaupt   Golden, CO
 
This route does not see much sun. A good summer climb for the afternoon. Apr 27, 2002