Talus Food Crack
Avg: 2 from 7 votes
Routes in Sphinx Rock
|Black Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Cheops S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Crunch, The T,TR V0- 4-|
|Exit Stage Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Joint Venture T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R|
|Lickety Split S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R|
|Locksmith aka Dihedral Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Return to Forever T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Slug AKA Summit Route 1960, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|So Honed Yet So Stoned S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Sphinx Crack T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c|
|Talus Food Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Thinner T A3|
|Type:||Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches|
|Page Views:||637 total, 4/month|
|Shared By:||pete cogan on Jul 13, 2004|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionTo the left of the "Stage Right" ramp and "Black Crack," note the beautiful right angling crack that begins about 20 feet off the ground. You may find it less beautiful once you are on it.
The first moves are protected by two bolts, and then you are in the crack. A combination of fist jams, arm jams, off width grovelling, flailing, and occasional whimpering were all effective.
After 90 feet or so, you can set anchors and watch your follower. Or, you can run it up to the tree. Finally, you could take it to the top and sling a boulder.
Double rope rap off tree or easy walk off Left.
I thought this harder than 5.9+, as well as awkward. I would not call it fun, but I would call it training. If you like funky off width-y South Platte excursions, this climb is for you.
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