Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 735 total · 4/month
Shared By: pete cogan on Jul 13, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Closed: Private Property - Sphinx Rock is on private property Details

Description

To the left of the "Stage Right" ramp and "Black Crack," note the beautiful right angling crack that begins about 20 feet off the ground. You may find it less beautiful once you are on it.

The first moves are protected by two bolts, and then you are in the crack. A combination of fist jams, arm jams, off width grovelling, flailing, and occasional whimpering were all effective.

After 90 feet or so, you can set anchors and watch your follower. Or, you can run it up to the tree. Finally, you could take it to the top and sling a boulder.

Double rope rap off tree or easy walk off Left.

I thought this harder than 5.9+, as well as awkward. I would not call it fun, but I would call it training. If you like funky off width-y South Platte excursions, this climb is for you.

Protection

Can protect with all cams, .75 to 4.5, with doubles in the handsize and above. Larger hexes could also be helpful. Multiple anchor possibilities (see below).

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