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Routes in Sphinx Rock

Black Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cheops S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crunch, The T,TR V0- 4-
Exit Stage Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Joint Venture T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Lickety Split S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Locksmith aka Dihedral Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Return to Forever T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Slug AKA Summit Route 1960, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
So Honed Yet So Stoned S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sphinx Crack T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Talus Food Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Thinner T A3
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: David Bell, 1980-1
Page Views: 86 total, 0/month
Shared By: Matt Juth on Apr 27, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Closed: Private Property - Sphinx Rock is on private property Details

Description

This route is located on the left side of the slabs below Sphinx Crack. It is the leftmost slab route. Although the top is just a solo up 5.5 terrain the crux areas down low are great fun and reasonably protected (as long as the 1/4" bolt survives the short fall you would exert). If the bottom slab continued I would consider this a great route.

Crimp up small edges on perfect slab up to the flake, place a small cam and hop up. Clip the bolt, and slab out right and up on knobs and a few edges. Once you are on the lower angled rock, the hard climbing is over. Angle up and left toward two bolts above a ledge. I don't remember placing another piece until just before the top. You could groundfall from the upper section.

Protection

One old bolt and a small cam in the flake/ramp. Another medium piece near the top. I think that was it!

Photos

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Kit Suddreth
  5.10a R
Kit Suddreth  
  5.10a R
David Bell put this up I don't know the date, sometime in '80' or '81. He climbed it with a girl he went out with at the time. I do not remember her name. The slab was always good bouldering, and on a whim, he drilled it. It is a 1/4" x 1 1/2" Rawl drive. It should be a Leeper hanger. Sep 9, 2017