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Routes in Sphinx Rock

Black Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cheops S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crunch, The T,TR V0- 4-
Exit Stage Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Joint Venture T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Lickety Split S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Locksmith aka Dihedral Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Return to Forever T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Slug AKA Summit Route 1960, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
So Honed Yet So Stoned S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sphinx Crack T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Talus Food Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Thinner T A3
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Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: David Bell, 1980-1
Page Views: 94 total · 0/month
Shared By: Matt Juth on Apr 27, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Closed: Private Property - Sphinx Rock is on private property Details

Description [Suggest Change]

This route is located on the left side of the slabs below Sphinx Crack. It is the leftmost slab route. Although the top is just a solo up 5.5 terrain the crux areas down low are great fun and reasonably protected (as long as the 1/4" bolt survives the short fall you would exert). If the bottom slab continued I would consider this a great route.

Crimp up small edges on perfect slab up to the flake, place a small cam and hop up. Clip the bolt, and slab out right and up on knobs and a few edges. Once you are on the lower angled rock, the hard climbing is over. Angle up and left toward two bolts above a ledge. I don't remember placing another piece until just before the top. You could groundfall from the upper section.

Protection [Suggest Change]

One old bolt and a small cam in the flake/ramp. Another medium piece near the top. I think that was it!

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Kit Suddreth
  5.10a R
Kit Suddreth  
  5.10a R
David Bell put this up I don't know the date, sometime in '80' or '81. He climbed it with a girl he went out with at the time. I do not remember her name. The slab was always good bouldering, and on a whim, he drilled it. It is a 1/4" x 1 1/2" Rawl drive. It should be a Leeper hanger. Sep 9, 2017

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