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Routes in South Face

Beach Blanket Bingo T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Quit Yer Beachin' S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Vertical Beach Party S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Webster-Ellis Route? S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, 130 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 80 total, 0/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Sep 8, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

The biggest challenge may be finding this rock. From Denver, go West on US Hwy 285, go South (left) on Foxton Rd, this Ts at the South Platte River, head East (left) to South Platte, then it curves South, go 3 miles. There is a prominent, large boulder across the South Platte River just North of the parking area. Park where legal.

2 drainages can be hiked up. The North one has Atlantis slab a short way up. Choose the South drainage. Hike 20 minutes or so. Find the South face. Scramble up and around some boulders to find this route on the left side of the South face.

This slab smears, clip the first bolt, find a first crux 5.9 move, clip the 2nd bolt, find a 2nd crux 5.9 move, clip the 3rd bolt. From here you can move left up a few bolts to finish on Beach Blanket Bingo or continue up more moderate but much more runout slab to a 2 bolt anchor. Some of these hangers are Leepers.

Update: given the condition of the bolts, this should be considered a toprope problem!

Rap 120 feet.

Protection

QDs 4-6 (now 4) depending on your finish. Addendum: the bolts were in questionable state. The 2nd and 4th were replaced! Thank you! Some of these had snapped with minimal force!

Photos

rob bauer
Golden, CO
 
rob bauer   Golden, CO
 
THIS IS BACK TO 4 BOLTS. It took a while to find them, but we replaced the 2nd and 4th bolts (within 6" of the originals) yesterday.

This doesn't make it less likely you could fall, but the 1st, 2nd, and 4th bolts will now definitely hold you. (That 3rd bolt was a Rawl buttonhead with a Leeper hanger [2016 EDIT] and has been replaced w a modern bolt. (Remember, this is a route put up by old masters: they got to where they were AND had a good stance that allowed them to place a laborious hand-drilled bolt to protect THEIR 1st ascent.) You could take a 60 footer. The climbing is easier on the run-outs, but shit happens.

You can start this route from the ground, straight below the bolt or traverse in from the shade higher up on the right to shorten the run-out. Both ways are the same grade.

BTW, the 4th bolt is about dead-even with the anchors for BBB, which is about 11 feet to the left. The anchor [2016 edit] is new. This is definitely an old school moderate to be enjoyed by those ready for the history lesson/grade. Apr 12, 2014
slim

  5.9 R
slim    
  5.9 R
Same thing happened to me on the same route about 9 years ago. There are a ton of those same time bombs all over the place. Aug 21, 2013
rob bauer
Golden, CO
 
rob bauer   Golden, CO
 
THIS IS NOW A 2 BOLT CLIMB!

My buddy led this today and the 2nd bolt broke off from the weight of swinging rope after he'd clipped the 3rd bolt! (No falls, weighting, or stress.) It was another Rawl 1/4" button-head with a Leeper hanger. So, I'd say all these vintage bolts are HIGHLY suspect on this dome, at least. The first bolt is bigger with an SMC hanger which seems fine, but the 3 anchor bolts are similar size, age, and though nuts seem tight they all spin.

Be warned. Aug 21, 2013
Just a word of caution, I recently climbed this route and had the final bolt before the anchors break off while clipping a draw into it. The bolt fractured off about 1/2 inch inside the hole. There is one last section above here that is a bit tricky, and a fall would leave you dead or wishing you were dead. I had one bolt and a little hand drill and used this to back up the anchor, which consisted of similar 1/4 inch buttonheads. I had thought that I had another bolt and would replace the broken one while rapping back down but, upon searching in my little bag, realized that I didn't have another one with me. Jan 11, 2005