Vertical Beach Party
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British R
Type: | Sport, 130 ft (39 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 638 total · 2/month |
Shared By: | Leo Paik on Sep 8, 2001 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
The biggest challenge may be finding this rock. From Denver, go West on US Hwy 285, go South (left) on Foxton Rd, this Ts at the South Platte River, head East (left) to South Platte, then it curves South, go 3 miles. There is a prominent, large boulder across the South Platte River just North of the parking area. Park where legal.
2 drainages can be hiked up. The North one has Atlantis slab a short way up. Choose the South drainage. Hike 20 minutes or so. Find the South face. Scramble up and around some boulders to find this route on the left side of the South face.
This slab smears, clip the first bolt, find a first crux 5.9 move, clip the 2nd bolt, find a 2nd crux 5.9 move, clip the 3rd bolt. From here you can move left up a few bolts to finish on Beach Blanket Bingo or continue up more moderate but much more runout slab to a 2 bolt anchor. Some of these hangers are Leepers.
Update: given the condition of the bolts, this should be considered a toprope problem!
Rap 120 feet.
2 drainages can be hiked up. The North one has Atlantis slab a short way up. Choose the South drainage. Hike 20 minutes or so. Find the South face. Scramble up and around some boulders to find this route on the left side of the South face.
This slab smears, clip the first bolt, find a first crux 5.9 move, clip the 2nd bolt, find a 2nd crux 5.9 move, clip the 3rd bolt. From here you can move left up a few bolts to finish on Beach Blanket Bingo or continue up more moderate but much more runout slab to a 2 bolt anchor. Some of these hangers are Leepers.
Update: given the condition of the bolts, this should be considered a toprope problem!
Rap 120 feet.
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