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Routes in Deville 3

Deville 3 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kornerstone Edge T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
No Respite T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Parallel Universe T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Xenomorph T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Grade II
FA: Larry Dalke, 1960s
Page Views: 360 total, 2/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Dec 29, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

The first two pitches of this route get zero stars, but the final pitch gets three. That would average out to one star, but it's best to think of it as an alternative third pitch to Xenomorph (step left just below the second belay of that route), which would make it a three star route, so I averaged it out as two!

However, it certainly isn't the 5.9 as rated in the Rossiter, Gillett, and Kimball guides. This is one "Dalke 5.9" that never did get upgraded! Unfortunately for me, when I climbed the route, 5.9 was my absolute limit, and the crux had its way with me (and for a considerable amount of time, too!). It's slightly and continuously overhanging and the holds and jams are not very positive. Solid 5.10 or harder, just like all of the routes in Eldo that Dalke rated 5.9, but are now 5.10c.

P1 begins on the narrow North face of the Deville Three Pinnacle. Ascend moderate, uninteresting terrain for 100 or so feet to a belay ledge.

P2 consists of super-scary 5.8 up a very steep RF corner (the right of two), with sketchy pro and some friable rock. Belay on a large ledge with a cairn, right of the dark cleft that separates the pinnacle from the rest of the cliff.

P3 climbs the crack (w/fixed angle) above the ledge (3", then fingers and thin hands). Good protection (I tested much of it), strenuous and continuous climbing on excellent rock. Easier but loose ground above leads to the summit of the pinnacle.

Protection

Carry a standard rack to 3".

Photos

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Charles Vernon
Tucson, AZ
 
Charles Vernon   Tucson, AZ
 
Scott, maybe you'd consider closing the bidding for someone like me who has a soft spot in his heart for that angle.

Bid: no money, but I agree to stop referring to you as "that damn sandbagger Kimball" when speaking of Romulan Territory ;-) Feb 7, 2004
I now own the fixed angle, taking bids pre EBay. Feb 6, 2004
Definition of a Dalke 5.9: "No Respite" 5.10b/c. An overhanging, Eldo, jugcrack, not in Eldo... Jul 13, 2003