Avg: 2 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Rossiter et al., early 1990s|
|Page Views:||688 total, 4/month|
|Shared By:||Charles Vernon on Dec 29, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionIn my opinion, if you start and finish this route with the Deville 3 route, it's definitely a 3-star route and better than the full line of Deville 3. The second pitch is spectacular face climbing with just enough gear.
P1 starts at the left side of the SW face of the spire. Look for a long, small roof. Begin in a short, shallow, LF corner, then move up and left with uninspiring gear to the corner of the formation. Clip a good bolt, then make a short 5.9- move. The clip is made from a very tenuous stance and by itself might warrrant an "s" rating. Continue on easier ground to the left side of a large pillar and belay.
Variation to P1- the first 1 and 1/2 pitches of Deville 3: any number of starts (the easiest moves in from the right) gains the very right edge of the long roof. Fun, 5.7 face climbing leads up and left. Stretch the rope into the upper reaches of Xenomorph's first pitch and the pillar belay.
P2-ascend a LF corner, clip a bolt above (last gear for 10-15 feet), and make airy 5.9- moves on and just to the right of the sharp NW corner of the formation. Continue with moderate climbing to an exposed ledge. A variation steps around the NW corner from the belay, ascends a 5.9 crack, then steps back below the bolt.
P3- 3 options: 1) straight up on good holds, low fifth class; 2) traverse considerably right to an easy LF corner, or 3) by far the best option-climb the thin crack and vertical face in between options 1 and 2. Exposed, excellent 5.7+ (the last pitch of the route Deville 3).