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Routes in The Lost World

Colossus Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Night of the Unicorn T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Southwest Prow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wandering Star T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Yosemite Slab T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 695 total, 4/month
Shared By: Kurt Johnson on Dec 17, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Curiously, this is the only route in Rossiter's guidebook followed by a question mark. I'm not sure if this refers to the name or the rating, but it intrigued me, and since my partner Charles and I were already up there and we had a couple more hours of daylight, we figured we'd get one more route in before heading home.

The first pitch is described as a shallow dihedral, and even from the base of the route you can't see what the crack inside this feature looks like, so it didn't occur to me to bring up anything larger than a #3 Camalot. The first 30-35 feet of the first pitch is sustained 5.9 climbing protected by small to medium stoppers and an occasional micro cam, after which you pull left a few feet into the true shallow dihedral, the bottom of which would have taken a #4 Camalot. Instead of a crack running up the length of the inside of the corner, there's a flared groove that gets progressively more flared, and moss-filled the higher up it goes, lacking any decent protection options. I figured there MUST be some sort of gear placement higher up, so I kept climbing, getting more and more gripped and pumped from the strenuous lieback/pinch (liebacks never were my forte), no gear in sight. After almost 20 feet of this, there looked to be a decent hold about 8 feet higher where I might be able to rest and get a piece in, so I kept moving, hoping I'd make it before losing all my strength. But before I got more than a couple moves higher, my feet popped without warning and I fell, pulling my last piece (the second smallest Alien) 20+ feet below and finally being caught by my next-highest piece (a mid-sized Sentinel Nut), landing upside-down inches from the ground, grass poking through the ventilation holes of my helmet. Moral of the story: if there's a question mark in the guidebook, it means the author probably hasn't climbed it.

Protection

Standard rack plus a #4 Camalot, and a couple screamers for the old bolts at the top. Also, strong forearms for the runout lieback on the first pitch.

Photos

I do not have Rossiter's guidebook for this area, but if I remember right. He say two bolts on the climb are not bolts but LEEPER hangers. Climbing Mag. had a warning out about Leeper hangers breaking (last couple of issues). Jul 26, 2004
Kurt Johnson
Estes Park, CO
 
Kurt Johnson   Estes Park, CO
 
This route isn't necessarily worthy of no stars...in fact, it looks very aesthetic and the climbing's good. However, due to the fact that I almost died climbing it and that I never finished it, I didn't think that I should rate it. So, I chose to give it no stars thinking that the program wouldn't let me leave that section blank (which is why there's a bomb icon in the right-hand corner). Dec 22, 2001
Kurt Johnson
Estes Park, CO
 
Kurt Johnson   Estes Park, CO
 
Incidently, the "s" rating was added by me and isn't included in the guidebook Dec 18, 2001