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Routes in The Lost World
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Colossus Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Night of the Unicorn T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Rainbows and Unicorns T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Southwest Prow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Wandering Star T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Welcome to the Jungle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Yosemite Slab T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,833 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Kurt Johnson on Dec 17, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Closures
Details
Seasonal closures Feb. 15-July 31. Per the Denver Post:, the Cathedral Wall and all areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off-trail travel! Per this RMNP website, "Initial closures now occur in Feb. 15 and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
Description
Curiously, this is the only route in Rossiter's guidebook followed by a question mark. I'm not sure if this refers to the name or the rating, but it intrigued me, and since my partner Charles and I were already up there and we had a couple more hours of daylight, we figured we'd get one more route in before heading home.
The first pitch is described as a shallow dihedral, and even from the base of the route you can't see what the crack inside this feature looks like, so it didn't occur to me to bring up anything larger than a #3 Camalot. The first 30-35 feet of the first pitch is sustained 5.9 climbing protected by small to medium stoppers and an occasional micro cam, after which you pull left a few feet into the true shallow dihedral, the bottom of which would have taken a #4 Camalot. Instead of a crack running up the length of the inside of the corner, there's a flared groove that gets progressively more flared, and moss-filled the higher up it goes, lacking any decent protection options. I figured there MUST be some sort of gear placement higher up, so I kept climbing, getting more and more gripped and pumped from the strenuous lieback/pinch (liebacks never were my forte), no gear in sight. After almost 20 feet of this, there looked to be a decent hold about 8 feet higher where I might be able to rest and get a piece in, so I kept moving, hoping I'd make it before losing all my strength. But before I got more than a couple moves higher, my feet popped without warning and I fell, pulling my last piece (the second smallest Alien) 20+ feet below and finally being caught by my next-highest piece (a mid-sized Sentinel Nut), landing upside-down inches from the ground, grass poking through the ventilation holes of my helmet. Moral of the story: if there's a question mark in the guidebook, it means the author probably hasn't climbed it.
The first pitch is described as a shallow dihedral, and even from the base of the route you can't see what the crack inside this feature looks like, so it didn't occur to me to bring up anything larger than a #3 Camalot. The first 30-35 feet of the first pitch is sustained 5.9 climbing protected by small to medium stoppers and an occasional micro cam, after which you pull left a few feet into the true shallow dihedral, the bottom of which would have taken a #4 Camalot. Instead of a crack running up the length of the inside of the corner, there's a flared groove that gets progressively more flared, and moss-filled the higher up it goes, lacking any decent protection options. I figured there MUST be some sort of gear placement higher up, so I kept climbing, getting more and more gripped and pumped from the strenuous lieback/pinch (liebacks never were my forte), no gear in sight. After almost 20 feet of this, there looked to be a decent hold about 8 feet higher where I might be able to rest and get a piece in, so I kept moving, hoping I'd make it before losing all my strength. But before I got more than a couple moves higher, my feet popped without warning and I fell, pulling my last piece (the second smallest Alien) 20+ feet below and finally being caught by my next-highest piece (a mid-sized Sentinel Nut), landing upside-down inches from the ground, grass poking through the ventilation holes of my helmet. Moral of the story: if there's a question mark in the guidebook, it means the author probably hasn't climbed it.
Photos
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