All Locations > Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Fern Canyon Rocks > Lost World

Night of the Unicorn

Name: Night of the Unicorn
Rating: 2.0

5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British

Routes in The Lost World

	Colossus Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Night of the Unicorn T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Rainbows and Unicorns T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Southwest Prow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Wandering Star T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
	Welcome to the Jungle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Yosemite Slab T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

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Type:	Trad, Grade II
GPS:	40.352, -105.65683
FA:	Richard Rossiter
Page Views:	909 total · 3/month
Shared By:	Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Closures Details

Seasonal closures Feb. 15-July 31. Per the Denver Post:, the Cathedral Wall and all areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off-trail travel! Per this RMNP website, "Initial closures now occur in Feb. 15 and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."

For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.

General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.

Description

The Knome Dome, site of this route, lies a short way below and to the east of the Colossus. As for that rock, hike the Fern lake trail 1 and 1/2 miles to Bridge, then head up the hill. The Knome Dome is a prominent, 350 foot high triangular cliff.

P1. Identify an A-shaped roof halfway up the cliff, and start below that, near a large tree. Traverse up and right across the face on a ramp to a belay (5.5).

P2. Climb straight up, linking cracks and corners, and belay below a bulge, down and right of the A-shaped roof (5.7, 100 feet).

P3. Climb over the bulge (5.10a) or climb the corner to the roof and turn that at 5.8. Either way, continue in a nice hand crack. Belay or stretch the rope to the top; descend to the west.

Note: the cliff immediately west (the Moot Point Apron sports a beautiful steep slab with a shallow dihedral, said to be 5.10 (2 old bolts). Unfortunately, my partner took a rather large fall after 50 feet of fantastic climbing, so we didn't finish the route. An offwidth piece for a flake would be advisable.