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Routes in The Lost World

Colossus Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Night of the Unicorn T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Southwest Prow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wandering Star T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Yosemite Slab T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Gene Ellis and Hector Galbraith, 1994
Page Views: 919 total, 7/month
Shared By: Luis Barandiaran on May 22, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Probably named for the route's nature and the Portishead song released the same year, this quality route ascends the left side of the west face of Gnome Dome. The rock quality is reminiscent of Lumpy Ridge and is in a beautiful, isolated setting. Begin at an obvious ripply seam 50 feet left of the large roof at the bottom center of the dome. Two fairly long pitches follow discontinuous seams up and a little to the left with sparse/questionable pro every 20'. Some of the moves are insecure and not well protected. Lower crux comes at an interesting clean-cut keystone shape at your chest (this looks freshly broken and goes at 5.6, maybe 5.7). These 2 pitches lead up to a ledge beneath the entry to the headwall (Rossiter's topo is very good for this). Crank through the weakness and into the terrific hand crack to the top. This is a very good pitch.

Due to the nature of the protection, this route isn't recommended for leaders breaking into the grade.

Location

Skip downclimbing beneath the Orange Arete (5.4) and bring your gear up with you and decend the walk-down to the east. Uneasy scrambling down the reverse "C" gully of pine trees brings you down the east side of the dome. At the same height of the large roof on Goblins Slab we found new-ish webbing with a rap ring. 80' takes you down by the beginning of Goblins Slab, a great moderate in its own right. Climb and repeat as necessary....

Protection

Standard rack.

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