Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 350 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Gene Ellis and Hector Galbraith, 1994|
|Page Views:||919 total, 7/month|
|Shared By:||Luis Barandiaran on May 22, 2007|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionProbably named for the route's nature and the Portishead song released the same year, this quality route ascends the left side of the west face of Gnome Dome. The rock quality is reminiscent of Lumpy Ridge and is in a beautiful, isolated setting. Begin at an obvious ripply seam 50 feet left of the large roof at the bottom center of the dome. Two fairly long pitches follow discontinuous seams up and a little to the left with sparse/questionable pro every 20'. Some of the moves are insecure and not well protected. Lower crux comes at an interesting clean-cut keystone shape at your chest (this looks freshly broken and goes at 5.6, maybe 5.7). These 2 pitches lead up to a ledge beneath the entry to the headwall (Rossiter's topo is very good for this). Crank through the weakness and into the terrific hand crack to the top. This is a very good pitch.
Due to the nature of the protection, this route isn't recommended for leaders breaking into the grade.