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Routes in Rainy Day Rock

7 Up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bat Shit Crazy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Good Enough For Government T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Government Inaction T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Guanopsychotic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shinola S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slippery When Wet S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Hubbel and Oliver claimed the FA in "1980? Marty Alfred, Diana, and maybe Dan McGee, ~1986
Page Views: 138 total, 1/month
Shared By: Darrin Stein on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Facing the crag, on the right side behind a tree are two routes. This is the obvious, left crack. I rate this a 5.8, but an older guidebook has it at 5.9-.... You be the judge.

Protection

Small rack with 2 draws for 2nd pitch bolts.

Photos

I climbed 7 Up a couple times back around 1983 with Dan McGee, Lynn Fletcher, and Bruce Burnell. Had to give up climbing a few years later due to a severe case of HAPE on an ice climb. Are Dan or Lynn still around? I would love to get in contact with them again. Mar 1, 2012
ssp
ssp  
I got a few areas /routes that could be added into a new guide. Plus some good ol' buddies have been doing some pickin' deep in the Platte. I can pry the info outta 'em if I have good incentive.
Let me know.... Feb 7, 2012
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
  5.7
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
  5.7
That new book will be good! Dec 29, 2011
Hey Ken --

Motivated to provide info for the upcoming Splatte guidebook, I have finally come out of the closet. I have found old photos and journal entries to back up my memory and guidebook notations.

On Jan. 18, 1981, Steve Sarns and I climbed this route to a fixed angle under the roof. I traversed left under the roof for almost a full 1981 ropelength (~5.7) and belayed Steve over. Then he moved back right about ten feet and clean-aided over the overlap. He continued, using some aid up what Hubbel's 1988 guidebook indicates is the second pitch of "Toad Strangler," of which you were to make the FA of p.1 in 12/86. I followed free. Hubbel and Oliver claimed the FA of "7 Up" in "1980."

Earlier on the same day, Steve and I climbed what Hubbel calls Crackola. Then I led the second pitch, which he calls "Crackola Direct".

I remember when... trees were all over the place. If I can find a slide scanner, I could post some pics. Dec 29, 2011
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
  5.7
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
  5.7
FIRST ASCENT TEAM (about 1986): Marty Alfred and Diana Baily. Possibly Lynn (hottie from Forrest Mtn Shop)and Dan McGee.

This could be one of the better easy pitches in the South Platte. No jamming, just nice liebacking with a crack that takes stoppers and cams well; up to #2.5 Friend. Lots of wasps in October, but they seemed peaceful about sharing the finger locks.

Rating: 5.7 just as the name implies. A week ago we did the Nutcracker in Yosemite, 5.8. Seven-Up is much easier. Endurance counts in the YDS, so even though no move is harder than easy 5.6, it adds up to a 5.7 ankle burner. Oct 9, 2007
Andrew Ingraham
Conifer
 
Andrew Ingraham   Conifer
 
Great Route! I didn't do the second pitch and I would assume that's where the 5.8 / 5.9 dilemma is. The first pitch is a perfect 70ft lie back with great protection 5.7+. Beautiful area! No one else around. Feb 6, 2006
flynn  
Interesting. When I did this route as a nervous 5.7 leader during the last ice age, it was rated 5.7. I thought it was stiff for the grade, but the pro is perfect, the climbing aesthetic. If you stray right at all it gets harder in a hurry. A fun route. Feb 9, 2002