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Routes in Rainy Day Rock

7 Up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bat Shit Crazy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Good Enough For Government T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Government Inaction T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Guanopsychotic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shinola S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slippery When Wet S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Description

This crag sits downstream, slightly uphill, and in the trees a short distance from Goose Creek Campground. There are just a handful of established routes on this one, without a need for any more. It's secluded, quiet, and beautiful, and the rock typical South Platte granite.

Getting There

From Deckers go North on CO Hwy. 126 to the junction of Forest Service Road #211. Follow the road to the Goose Creek campground, about 3 miles past the Molly Gulch campground. Park and take about a 15 minute walk East to the crag.

Per Ken Trout: APPROACH DETAILS: I recently went in and got lost partly due to memory and partly the fire.

First, cross the creek before leaving the Goose Creek Campground. There is a gravel bar that makes wading nice in bare feet. The log jam below the gravel is walkable, a stickclip placed in the deep water helps with balance. Or just use the bridge. There is no trail on the north side of the creek until past the campsites. A horse trail is picked up where it crosses the creek, below the campground. The horse ford is not a good place to wade across, too rocky.

Next, follow the trail until you see the dome. After a detour around a tree, the trail enters a grassy area below the dome. Hike up via the more open hillside left of the dome. Once your about level with the base of the cliff, but still maybe 200' left of any routes, begin the rightward traverse. Basically an exposed ledge traverse leads to a low-angle chimney and then the route "Slippery When Wet".

I pulled tons of mullein (an Asian import weed) on the route, but it is still a mess. Lots of sun on this south-facing slab.

7 Total Climbs

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Was in the area to go backpacking and found this dome as a nice little fun scramble to do before or after the hike. Start on the lower right side of the dome, on top of the big, detached bulge. Follow a rail/hand traverse up and to the right. You can probably protect this with 0.3 - 0.75, but you don't really need to. Something like 5.5 - 5.6? Sorta crumbly. Do some cool slab moves to the left of the dead tree at the base of the huge ledge. Walk up the massive ledge to the government tree. Follow either Government route to the top and belay on the bristlecone pine. The top of this dome has really cool water grooves that streak down the front. Hike off right. The view is spectacular, and at sunset, the whole thing glows orange. Oct 28, 2017
Hey Bryan, yep it's that Stewart...isn't it? Ha. That Infidel is a proud route. I've had my eye on it for years.... Aug 15, 2009
I agree that you are posting in the wrong place - if there is more banter about Infidel put it in the Infidel posting area. Also, if you go climb it, give it to us straight. Go do it.

The bolts are actually 5/16 (not 3/8 or 1/4) inch buttonheads. I did the FA of this route in the early eighties.

Help the SP climbing area to rise to the standards of other climbing areas by reporting accurately. Aug 14, 2009
Allen Hill
FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Allen Hill   FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
The road is the best way in. In fact it eventually finds it way to the ranch. Aug 11, 2009
Didn't mean anything by the bolt comment - just sometimes hear talk of making routes "safe".

I'd guess there are lines on that rock that would be pretty stiff. I eyed the ramp that goes right (instead of left, where we went). It disappears around the corner... Here's to drilling on the sharp end!

If you go, I'd love to hear about it. Might just get back there myself one day soon.

Stewart, Bryan Ferguson here. Are the Stewart Green I climbed with a couple of time around 1980? Aug 11, 2009
slim    
Aaahh, I see.... You are already on the south side of it. At least I think I see, am I correct? No matter how you slice it, that hike back to the car at the end of a long day is always a grunt. Aug 11, 2009
Kevin Stricker
Evergreen, CO
Kevin Stricker   Evergreen, CO
The hike uphill does suck at the end of the day, although it does provide some extra training. Slim, from the closed road you neither have to cross the Lost Creek land or the river. Aug 11, 2009
Hey Kevin,

That closed road is the way I go into Sunshine and Couch Potatoes. Park on the Matakat Road and follow it through the big burn. Easy to see where you're going since the rocks are ahead. Stay on the ridge as much as possible. The bitch is coming out the uphill at the end of a long day. Aug 11, 2009
slim    
Kevin,

Does it get you down to a decent spot to cross the creek? The only way I have ever gone is from the Goose Creek Campground, which meets the creek at an easy spot to wade across. Aug 11, 2009
Kevin Stricker
Evergreen, CO
Kevin Stricker   Evergreen, CO
Have you guys approached from the closed road about 1/2 way between Goose Creek and the front side (closed) road accessing BRCM? I would think this would be the most direct approach to the Infidel as it seems to be the fastest way to get to Sunshine Dome.

As for your bolt comment Jay, I wouldn't think of adding any bolts to the Infidel. I might put up a new harder line though...bolted on lead of course....if I find something worthy. Aug 11, 2009
OK, so I got a chance to re-visit the area - while you all were talking about Goose Creek CG, I was thinking Molly Gulch (sorry 'bout that). The Goose Creek approach looks like the way to go to the Infidel.

I posted up a couple pics that clarify what slabs we climbed on. Hope it helps clarify the questions we share. I suspect there are a bunch of FAs in this area.

Peace. Aug 10, 2009
Allan, thanks for the kudos. We did step up that day understanding that this was a great climb and that we'd need all our skills and nerve to make it a climb that might stand times tests. We still are hoping we did the right thing. I recall the party you refer to - we were very keen on getting someone up there to confirm our suspicions that this was a cool route! Aug 3, 2009
I'll tail in here and on the Infidel page - I understand replacing bolts with modern, safer bolts but please don't add bolts to the Infidel. I lead the first and third pitches on-sight without pre-view and drilled each bolt (no power drill - all with hand brace and hammer) on lead without aid (Jay lead pitches two and four). The addition of bolts will alter the route in a way that will erase the spirit in which the route first was done. Aug 2, 2009
slim    
kevin,

would some time in late september work for you, when it cools down a bit? replacing the old bolts sounds like a good plan. Jul 24, 2009
Kevin Stricker
Evergreen, CO
Kevin Stricker   Evergreen, CO
Slim,
Send me a line if you want a partner for this one. Maybe we could replace the few bolts at the same time? Don't know if you are into that sort of thing.

P.S. why are we talking about the Infidel in the Rainy Day Rock area? Jul 22, 2009
slim    
hmmm, dangerous. looks like i am going to have to recruit some muscle for this one (infidel). i have been looking at it for quite a while, but never seem to get around to doing it. lots of rock in that stretch, for sure. Jul 22, 2009
Allen Hill
FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Allen Hill   FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
I know this much; the Infidel is worth getting into. Huge kudos to Brian and Jay. I remember right after you guys climbed it Jay's parents (his father was my dentist) let a keg party happen at their home. You guy's ranted about the climb that night. It is totally a Platte classic if you got serious mental illness. It's fucking stout, burly, and dangerous. Jul 21, 2009
You guys got me thinking you might be right. I just tried google earthing around and it didn't add much clarity. I am over due for a visit down there. The crag I refer to might be insignificant on the South Platte scale but the climbing was great. We spotted the Infidel from the top. I don't think it is the Couch Potato (unless we were there early on??). Slim, I suspect this crag might be a bit further south than you describe - seemed like a lot of bushwhacking and not steep enough to have hard cracks. Fun sussing stuff out - challenges the memory! Jul 20, 2009
Allen Hill
FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Allen Hill   FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Yes he is talking about the approach to Planet X, Couch Potatoes, ect.. Ken's comments here are right on regarding getting to Rainy Day Rock which is upstream. Jul 15, 2009
slim    
are buttonheadspinner's comments about planet x also, the approach directions don't sound anything like the rainy day rock approach directions (?). Jul 15, 2009
Allen Hill
FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Allen Hill   FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Slim your thinking of Planet X for sure. Jul 15, 2009
slim    
Buttonheadspinner, are you talking about the chunks of rock just to the south of Helen's Dome on the same 'ridge', (i.e. Planet X, Hidden Valley Rock, Lake Wobegone Dome, etc.)? If I remember correctly, one of those rocks has a nice 5.9 or 5.10 finger crack on it. Jul 14, 2009
We climbed there back in the early '80s. Had a couple FAs – one on each main rock. On the Northerly of the two slabs we climbed Crawlspace (stiff 5.8, run out). Step up and left from the large cleft/weakness that separates the slabs and follow the bolts.

On the southerly slab we did a new route called Ooooaaah. An interesting lead up the middle with long runouts and a nut placement in the middle of nowhere near the top. I remember a simul-climbing finish but with the longer ropes of today, that would not be necessary.

We reported both as FAs to the Bucksnort Saloon system of first ascent reporting as was the tradition in the South Platte. I imagine beer was spilled on the parchment by subsequent first ascentionists dissolving our ink and effectively altering history forever! I think a lot of beer was spilled resulting in ink smears that were, apparently, very difficult to interpret accurately.

There are (were?) three approaches I recall. One contours south from somewhere near the base of Helen’s Dome – this was difficult, is hit or miss and included a lot of bushwhacking. Another was to walk upstream, cross the creek and diagonal up the hill to the base – better but still a fairly tough. Last time we went there, we walked the road right through the Hidden Valley Dude Ranch – the best, easiest walk but you’ll find a robust security detail, there. The horseback cowboys were very polite and, after checking in at the main office, escorted us across the property and wished us good climb. ` Jul 13, 2009
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
APPROACH DETAILS: I recently went in and got lost partly due to memory and partly the fire.

First, cross the creek before leaving the Goose Creek Campground. There is a gravel bar that makes wading nice in bare feet. The log jam below the gravel is walkable, a stickclip placed in the deep water helps with balance. Or just use the bridge. There is no trail on the north side of the creek until past the campsites. A horse trail is picked up where it crosses the creek, below the campground. The horse ford is not a good place to wade across, too rocky.

Next, follow the trail until you see the dome. After a detour around a tree, the trail enters a grassy area below the dome. Hike up via the more open hillside left of the dome. Once your about level with the base of the cliff, but still maybe 200' left of any routes, begin the rightward traverse. Basically an exposed ledge traverse leads to a low angle chimney and then the route "Slippery When Wet".

I pulled tons of mullein (an Asian import weed) on the hike, but it is still a mess. Lots of sun on this south facing slab.
Oct 9, 2007

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