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Routes in Rainy Day Rock

7 Up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bat Shit Crazy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Good Enough For Government T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Government Inaction T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Guanopsychotic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shinola S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slippery When Wet S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 230 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Kayleen/Matt Castelli
Page Views: 87 total, 13/month
Shared By: Matt Castelli on Jun 1, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a good route with a bit of everything. The first pitch is a 20m chimney.
It feels pretty secure if you know how to use your shins to bridge the gap! This could be done with just a set of #3-#6, but a Big Bro or two lets you get gear in earlier, 5.9.

For the Yosemite fans, the second pitch is the hermaphrodite's flake of the South Platte. Tunnel under the flake for 15-20m, them jam the good hand crack to the tree ledge. There is good pro all the way, 5.8 (SR).

Pivot the anchor around the tree, and take the FOURTH crack to the right up past one tree to the belay tree on top. This finger crack starts as a layback looking crack and is easy to miss, so don't take the other thinner cracks! 5.6, 30m. Small gear is useful. The route is guano free, FYI.

Location

It is in the same alcove as Bat Shit Crazy on the left. The best access is by taking the tunnel in from the back (climber's left), but you can make an 4th class traverse in from Bat Shit Crazy.

Protection

This can be done with a single rack (c3s-#6), but more small gear helps on the third pitch and a Big Bro or two lets you get pro earlier on the first pitch.

Photos

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