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Routes in Secret Crag (aka Ridge 6)

Bob's Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Burning Down the House S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Completion Backword Principle S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Eldorado Gold S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
In Plain View S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
King of Pain S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mind Control S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Opus 73 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peri-less Journey S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Powder Finger S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Riding With the King S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Three-Stage Traverse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Top Down Design S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Ken Trout, 1992
Page Views: 933 total · 4/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Jun 7, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Private Property issues Details

Description

Perhaps the best line on Ridge 2, Eldorado Gold starts off in a shallow corner system just about where the slab appears to drop one off into the void. Scramble down the slab with care; staying left of the trees adds significantly to the comfort factor. The climbing starts in the corner and works its way around the corner/arete for half a dozen bolts on intricate and in-obvious moves. Pull a small roof at 65 feet on okay edges to gain a final vertical face with thin edgy moves, long reaches, and a technical crux (mid-5.11).

This gets three stars for the perfect stone, superb continuity, and intricate climbing. I keep saying this, but here is yet another classic route by the World's Hottest Teacher, Ken Trout.

Protection

QDS only. This 80 fOOt route needs 9 to 10 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.

Photos

A weak two star. The climbing is good, but the fact that the crux is contrived detracts substantially. The crux is a long reach to a jug btw the 2nd and 3rd bolts and can be avoided by staying in the corner. The climbing beyond this point is good but felt considerably easier than Completion Backward Principle. I found CBP a much more interesting climb. Apr 6, 2004
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a
The route is probably not harder than 10d for the tall, but could be much harder for the short. THe crux pull is a matter of how high you have to lock off on a decent edge to reach the jug, or if you have to pinch and shuffle your way up it. As well, if you skip the crux to the left, the climb is probably 10b or 10c. Kinda fun, but not great. 1-2 stars. Certainly plenty of bolts. Aug 23, 2004

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