Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: Jim Erickson and Steve Wunsch 1973
Page Views: 475 total · 3/month
Shared By: Dave Holliday on Nov 6, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Access Issue: Private Property issues Details

Description

This route ascends a right-facing dihedral system up to a wide crack (that narrows down) through an overhang. It starts to the right of the face that contains Peril-less Journey. I started by clipping the first bolt of a new sport route just to the right of Peril-less Journey and then firing straight up the dihedral. There are many dubious flakes along the way, and the rock is not great until you're just below the overhang and wide crack. The rock is quite solid from there to the top.

I finished by reaching over to the left and clipping the anchor of Burning Down the House. I'm sure the route continued a few feet more to the top when it was first put up, but we didn't do that.

The route can be seen in the beta photo for Burning Down the House. It's to the right of that route.

Protection

Standard rack to #4 Friend. Doubles of hand-size pieces would be useful. Although I didn't have one, a much larger piece might work in the wide crack at the start of the overhang. I was comfortable without such a piece.

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Eric Klammer
Boulder, CO
  5.10a PG13
Eric Klammer   Boulder, CO
  5.10a PG13
Overall a very fun route! A word of warning though, the first 60' or so can be a little scary. A lot of loose flakes and poorly bonded sandstone had me 15' above an okay yellow Alien while climbing through the loose and poop covered rotten band below the start of the good rock. (I soon after sunk a #5 in the wide crack and all was good in the world again....)

Having said that, by the time I reached the top of the route, the junky lower half was completely forgotten. The last 15' is awesome! Steep, quality rock with some great moves over bomber gear. If only the whole climb was like that....

Exit left at the top of the difficulties to the sport anchor to save yourself from trying to top out. Apr 19, 2014