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Routes in Secret Crag (aka Ridge 6)

Bob's Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Burning Down the House S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Completion Backword Principle S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Eldorado Gold S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
In Plain View S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
King of Pain S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mind Control S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Opus 73 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peri-less Journey S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Powder Finger S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Riding With the King S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Three-Stage Traverse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Top Down Design S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Tod Anderson and Richard Wright, 1993
Page Views: 931 total, 5/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Jul 7, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Private Property issues Details


This excellent route fires up the middle of the longest section of the yellow, South facing main wall of Ridge 2, just left of a large pine tree. Climbing is on lay-aways, edges, and flakes and seems to get just a bit harder with every move. The technical crux, strictly speaking, comes with a finger traverse to the left, near the middle of the climb, and seemed a bit harder than 5.11a (my own call is more like 5.11b since the edge/seam really peters out at the left end). Another left traverse 20 ft below the anchors adds another 5.10+ crux on sketchy feet and is a bit tricky since it moves quite a way to the left. The rest feels a bit spacey, but climbing is never harder than 5.9. Three stars for the great stone, high continuity, and tricky sequences in the middle.


QDs only. This 100 foot route needs a baker's dozen of draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.


Alan Higham
Alan Higham  
Great pitch, if the belayer walks up the gully, then a 60m rope gets the climber down, assuming the QD's are stripped. Oct 31, 2004
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
A good climb with 4 potential cruxes, depending on your style.The first crux was at the first bolt- with odd stemming- the crux hold was slick and tough, for me this was the hardest move. Chalk or less "humid" conditions might have helped. A second crux was just at the roof. A agree that this bolt was somewhat poorly placed relative to fall position and rope drag, and a 2' sling will decrease the potential bother of either somewhat, but... the rope still drags with a long sling. Should the bolt below the roof ever be replaced, perhaps it should be moved left a foot or two.Pulling over that roof is cruxy and gettign established above it might give a climber some trouble. TH eclip there is pumpy.The last crux is lats and shoulders- it need not feel hard for the strong, but it will make a few limp-wristed delicate footwork experts sorry if 11a is their limit... and it will make ogres like me feel better after watching them sail through the first crux that I was whining on.

If you want to lower off of this, particularly with draws still in, I hope you brought your 70M rope. My 70M had only 3 meters left with climber and belayer at the ground. The route is more like 33m and a 60m will come up short, particularly with the wandering line of the climb and it's bolts.On rap you can probably swing uphill to reach a high spot on the ground and make it down with a 60M, but that is untested by myself and would be close. Aug 23, 2004
Richard's route description does not completely jibe with the climb I just did. I found two cruxes, the first a roof about midway and the second a traverse to the left near the top which matches Richard's technical crux. This route has interesting moves and good rock but is docked a star for rope drag and possible ledge fall potential at the second crux. Rope drag can be reduced by using a long sling on the bolt below the roof; if the extra fall potential this adds make you unhappy, you could place a small nut at the lip of the roof. Apr 6, 2004
Get ready for rope drag on this one.. Oct 5, 2001