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Routes in Secret Crag (aka Ridge 6)
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Bob's Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Burning Down the House S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Completion Backword Principle S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Eldorado Gold S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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In Plain View S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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King of Pain S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Mind Control S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Opus 73 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Peri-less Journey S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Powder Finger S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Riding With the King S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Three-Stage Traverse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Top Down Design S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Tod Anderson and Richard Wright, 1993 |
| Page Views: | 719 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Richard M. Wright on Jul 7, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Private Property issues
Details
The West Bank / Wild West / Secret Crag has been problematic for years due to access concerns. There have been negative encounters with gun-toting landowners who have alleged that the entire mountain is on private property. Typical approaches involve brief crossing of railroad property which appears to be prohibited.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Description
Originally conceived to fire through the small roof at 65 feet, Top Down Design heads that direction just right of the large pine tree and adjacent to Completion Backword Principle. A slew of 5.10 moves leads to an awkward, smearing crux around a very blank seeming bulge. Pull around this thing on thin friction, stepping left, into a small seam. Things run a bit after the last clip, but the edges improve and the climbing is no harder than 5.10. The belay is just below the roof. Frankly, we pulled the roof on top rope a bit to the left, significantly off the existing line, however, when climbing got scotched in this part of the world a lot really fine climbing went undone, and we are the worse for losing these lines. One could easily establish a line between CBP and TDD that pulled the roof and would turn up a full 100 foot route of stellar quality.
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