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Routes in Rainy Day Rock

Lightning Rod T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rain Man S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rainy Day 12A S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Slapaho S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Swingin' In The Rain S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Thunder Road S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Your Brain on Rain S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Kurt Smith and Mike Pont, 1990
Page Views: 167 total, 1/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Apr 30, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Who would imagine that the authors of the Clear Creek Classic, Sonic Youth, would stuff a tiny little line in here? Why not? Even The General needs to climb in the rain.

A crimpy start and a clip from the ground will get you into the dihedral and polish the crux. Chase the corner for a few more clips; pop up over the block above the dihedral to clip the anchors. Pretty cool over all, and a lot of pump delivered in 35 feet. Good edge training for the fingers. The Rainy Day anchor will allow you to top rope the 5.13 which is a lot trickier than it looks as well.

Location

Rainy Day 12A starts in the middle of the overhang, third route from the right and adjacent to an amazingly powerful 5.13 on its left.

Protection

QDs only. This 35 foot route needs 4-5 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.

Photos

slim

  5.12a
slim    
  5.12a
Yeah, I forgot to comment about the "crimps(?)" at the start. Good jugs actually. Are you tall or short? Which part was the crux for you and how did you do it? Just curious to see how others did it. The way that worked best for me was kind of not intuitive. Aug 31, 2011
monkeyvanya
Denver, CO
monkeyvanya   Denver, CO
Fun, a bit spicy.
Didn't find any crimps at the start, but a dyno to a jug below first bolt worked nice.
I agree with the idea of clipping second bolt from a good jug. I also clipped first bolt with a single biner to save couple inches. Aug 30, 2011
slim

  5.12a
slim    
  5.12a
This is about 2 letter grades harder if the draws aren't pre hung. Climbing this good/interesting deserves a lot better bolting job. If the 2nd and 3rd bolts were both moved about 2 feet lower, the route would flow a lot better and also be better protected. I've done this route several times, and now I just frig up to get the draws hung and then come back down and do it. Aug 10, 2011
chipacles
  5.12a
chipacles  
  5.12a
Fun route with some hard moves at the second bolt.

If you move to the jug above the second bolt before clipping that bolt, you should be ok to clip from a safe position. The danger, as I see it, comes from clipping it from the precarious position inside the dihedral. Just wait to make the jug: if you fall going for it, I don't think you'd hit the ground...it'd be close, but I doubt you'd deck (unless you have a 10 year old belaying you). Sep 7, 2010
Erik Durgin
  5.12a
Erik Durgin  
  5.12a
Short but sweet, this climb is fun and pumpy with some cool kneebaring half way up. Stick clipping a long draw on the second bolt can help. Sep 14, 2006
Luke Evans
  5.12a
Luke Evans  
  5.12a
This route is Kinda Burly for how short it is! The top is a little Chossy and looks like a Block could GO if you grab the wrong one! Be Cautious! Sep 7, 2005
chris deulen
Castle Rock
  5.12a
chris deulen   Castle Rock
  5.12a
I found I had to campus to a crimp after squeezing through the dihedral section. Aug 13, 2004
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
Be careful clipping the 2nd bolt. If you blow it, you may kiss the ground. Blecchhh. Good value for a short route. Mar 5, 2002
Jeff Lockyer
Canmore, AB
Jeff Lockyer   Canmore, AB
A great little pump. This route is short and a little harder than it may first appear. The moves are very continuous and the clips are commiting. A ncie sequence of moves leading up the thin corner. The start is varied and can be made easier by traversing in from the left. But start straight up and keep cranking for a good pump. Oct 2, 2001