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Routes in Rainy Day Rock

Lightning Rod T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rain Man S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rainy Day 12A S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Slapaho S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Swingin' In The Rain S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Thunder Road TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Your Brain on Rain S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
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Type: Sport
FA: Alan Nelson & Todd Anderson, 1993
Page Views: 613 total · 3/month
Shared By: Alan Nelson on Jul 26, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This route starts with a crux mantle past the first bolt onto a large sloping ledge. Anyway you try it, it is a solid 5.11 move that has befuddled many a 5.12 leader. The real trick is avoiding the "Beached Whale Syndrome", flopping around until you slide off backwards. From the ledge, nice overhanging reaches between 5.10 jugs take you to the anchors.

Protection

Three bolts to a two bolt anchor.

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Omit the mantle, though fun, quite hard, heel hook the bad boy and stand up. But as the man said, don't pull a "beached whale". It usually doesn't work and you don't get props for style. Sep 25, 2001
Jeff Lockyer
Canmore, AB
Jeff Lockyer   Canmore, AB
Definitely a nice little boulder problem type route. After the mantle, there are jugs to the top. The mantle can be ommitted as mentioned with heel hook but what fun is that ? (kidding) do it how you can, but at least try the mantle for a second time. A neat line. Oct 2, 2001
FA - AN & TA July 1993. Jul 31, 2008
slim

  5.11a
slim    
  5.11a
Went back and climbed this route again after doing it previously about 17 years ago. The only thing I remembered was the mantle and that I didn't really like the route. The mantle felt pretty easy this time, although I lost points for doing the 'beached whale'. I then put my break dancing skills to work (the worm, anybody remember that one?), and got up onto the ledge. Hopefully I re-earned my lost points with this display of technical proficiency.

The actual climbing on the rest of the route is kind of ok, although greasy. The bolts are old, the hangers look worse, and the runout to the anchors totally sucked. Greasy, awkward, and clipping the anchors off of a hidden portion of a hold. I didn't find the good spot until I had already clipped the anchors. You are a ways above your last bolt with the mantle block below you. Not a big fan of this one, probably won't ever do it again. Jun 10, 2011
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
Bunch of points for the worm, slim.
awesome Jun 10, 2011
Matthew Lloyd
denver colorado
Matthew Lloyd   denver colorado
You can just boulder this route, too!

youtube.com/watch?v=2oGOJH7…. Aug 28, 2012
John RB
Superior, CO
 
John RB   Superior, CO
 
Mlloyd didn't do the mantel... he climbed around it. No fair!

I heelhooked wearing shorts and still slid off backwards. I look like I just fell off a bike on to US Hwy 36.

The bolts are 1/4" and 2 of them spin... this thing really could use rebolting.

I found the climbing above the mantel to be reasonably hard for a few moves until you hit the jugs about 10' below the anchor. This route really isn't worth doing unless you are hard-up for the tick, and even then there are better and easier 11b's in Clear Creek. Also, this route seeps in the rain, so it's not good for that either. The 12a to the left is much better, though it's also quite short. Jun 14, 2018

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