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Routes in Bongo Boulder

Bongo (Fury) V6 7A PG13
Early Departure V0-1 4+
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Type: Boulder
FA: Bob Horan
Page Views: 2,268 total · 11/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Apr 3, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

Although I didn't get a chance to finish these problems (too tired and no balls that day) I wanted to add the beta.

A nice warmup is the juggy V2 starting off the block on the ground then pulling huge huecos for a topout over the lip.

For a tough traverse with fun moves, try the V6 SDS starting on the right side low. Move across on decent pockets and underclings then make some sort of crazy move (no clue on the beta here--big dyno maybe?) to join the V2 finish. Colorado Bouldering says this traverse is one of the best around.

It looks like some other problems may be possible out over the lip but would be pretty dang hard.

Per Joshua Merriam: This is one of the best problems I know of in The Flatirons.

The landing is flat pea gravel, for the crux, then you join into some part of the stand start off the adjacent pedestal boulder on the left. The setting is phenomenal: it is the only boulder in the field with a wild meadow backdrop, the rock itself is hard, colorful, overhanging stone, with a quality, non-contrived line that goes right out the roof and to the top of the boulder. Stunning.

Do an obvious sit start under the right hand side, from the lowest, reasonable holds is a great right hand sidepull, a reasonable left hand undercling (sort of pinch). Traverse left through a matchable crimp before the obvious crux getting left into the good holds in the V2, then finish it.

There is crumbly moderate climbing to the left of the V2, which could be utilized for a poorer, but independent topout. While addng some challenge, it would not increase the rating or quality of the line.

Eds. this is a combination of two submissions merged to avoid confusion.

Protection

A bong, bongo band, and three Leeper cam hooks.

Per Joshua Merriam: The landing when missing the crux move, or any move before, is safe even without a pad. Although pads would be nice. After the crux, you join the V2 from where falling is less recommended but not deadly.

Location

Per Joshua Merriam: take the Bear Canyon trail toward Seal Rock. After leaving the stream, and in the middle of a massive switchback, the Bongo Boulder sits in the middle of the field. The problem line is impossible to miss.

Photos

Bongo traverse (B2) and others on the Bongo boulder were developed by Bob Horan in the early 80s.....it's funny but I was up there early last week bouldering.....if you continue up the trail and stay right at the fork, just a ways after the radio tower are a bunch of boulders right on the trail and MANY others off trail, many of the offtrail boulders are excellent crack, bulge and steep face problems but most have scary landings.....follow the huge talus gully up and you will find some killer highballs (killer meant litterally). I found a really cool hand crack that steepens at about 30 feet and is full of flakey lichen (I traversed off at this point). Also found a few others fun hand and finger crack/flakes and steep slab problems that could be led safely....fun area if you have some time to search....excellent rock. Jan 1, 2001
That traverse kicked my ass! Harder than V6? May 15, 2004
Adam Brink
on the road
Adam Brink   on the road
At the crux leftward dyno there used to be an important left foot foothold that I broke off quite awhile ago. The move feels much harder now. Definately harder than V6. May 16, 2004
Just checked it out yesterday...very quality problem and very worthwhile. Horan's old grade for it was seven, and it feels like that is reasonable in its current condition. I've no idea where the 'key foot' used to be, but with just the right combination of the many foot holds to setup for the dyno, it is a fun and do-able move. Also, even w/o a spotter, you tend to get pulled back from the bad landing by your right hand if you miss the throw, so be confident!

You can add some difficulty by avoiding the three middle jug/pockets. Instead, use the big, cool pinchy sloper feature that sits about 16'' below. It soaks your power just a bit before the dyno.

PUBLIC SERVICE ANNOUNCEMENT: Though the moves on this climb are fun, I'd like to point out that there are surprises lurking in every jug.

In the summer, the jugs may have wasps

Yesterday [fall], the upper jugs at about 18ft were filled with water and the dirty jugs over the lip were filled with the fallen yellow leaves of the posion ivy patch a few feet above/back.

--j.jaegerAfter recovering from the soaked hands and pump, I put my arms and face right into the ivy before I realized it.

aaggghhh. Oct 14, 2004
bhoran Horan
Boulder, CO
bhoran Horan   Boulder, CO
I think it's time to start adding my $.02 to first ascent information at least as far as the bouldering around Boulder, Colorado goes. In my recent book Bouldering Colorado I left out first ascent notation, I could only imagine the response, had I added some of the history to a few of these, so called, new areas. In past books I tried to get and accurate historical perspective by reporting FA info. In more contemporary times, many new problems have been going in all over the state, and it can be difficult to keep up with the new wave. Routes I've heard of, and or have seen in other reports such as web guides, magazines or other guides seemed to have overlooked other past sources. Anyways the problems referred to here, on the Bongo Boulder I put up in the mid 1980s as well as a few other routes on its left side. I called it the Bongo Boulder after discovering it one winter while looking for cover when tromping through deep snow dumping that day, the south overhang, roof was completely dry and great cover from the elements. We used to call tromping through the snow, with your Sorels, or whatever boots, "Bongo Booting" hence the boulders name. May 9, 2009
Why not enter this route as V7, the way Horan rated it? It can always be downgraded if you climb it and decide it's easier. I think it's V7 for sure. Also, check out the comments on the "Bongo V?" section for more stuff on ratings. Nov 8, 2009
How do you do the dyno on this? What feet? Mar 14, 2011
Ben Sachs
  V7
Ben Sachs  
  V7
This is a great problem that packs a lot of climbing into one boulder. It's pretty safe with just one pad and no spot (don't fall on easy topout). I think it's solid at V7. Jun 6, 2013
Greg Miller
  V5-6 PG13
Greg Miller  
  V5-6 PG13
The hold you go for at the crux (big move left) snapped on me a few years ago. I was able to do it right after at about the same difficulty. A low commitment boulder problem and a nice place to hangout. Nov 8, 2013
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
  V7
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
  V7
Classic problem. Maybe something broke, because this is not V6. More like solid V7. The crux feels harder than Valhalla and Girlfriend's Backside, unless I'm missing something. Jun 7, 2015
Greg Miller
  V5-6 PG13
Greg Miller  
  V5-6 PG13
I've done this problem a few times since the hold broke on me. I'd still call it V5/6, but I'm not much of a boulderer, so don't know how to rate stuff. Jun 8, 2015
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
  V7
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
  V7
I don't doubt you, Greg, although I flash consensus V5-6 pretty consistently, and this felt nowhere near that easy. I must have missed some key beta. It is pretty easy all the way to what felt like two burly moves on a micro-crimp, a nothing-sloper, and crap for feet, and then it eases way up on the top-out. If you're you're ever up there again training on it, a quick phone vid of the beta would be awesome. Jul 12, 2015

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