Although I didn't get a chance to finish these problems (too tired and no balls that day) I wanted to add the beta.
A nice warmup is the juggy V2 starting off the block on the ground then pulling huge huecos for a topout over the lip.
For a tough traverse with fun moves, try the V6 SDS starting on the right side low. Move across on decent pockets and underclings then make some sort of crazy move (no clue on the beta here--big dyno maybe?) to join the V2 finish. Colorado Bouldering says this traverse is one of the best around.
It looks like some other problems may be possible out over the lip but would be pretty dang hard.
Per Joshua Merriam: This is one of the best problems I know of in The Flatirons.
The landing is flat pea gravel, for the crux, then you join into some part of the stand start off the adjacent pedestal boulder on the left. The setting is phenomenal: it is the only boulder in the field with a wild meadow backdrop, the rock itself is hard, colorful, overhanging stone, with a quality, non-contrived line that goes right out the roof and to the top of the boulder. Stunning.
Do an obvious sit start under the right hand side, from the lowest, reasonable holds is a great right hand sidepull, a reasonable left hand undercling (sort of pinch). Traverse left through a matchable crimp before the obvious crux getting left into the good holds in the V2, then finish it.
There is crumbly moderate climbing to the left of the V2, which could be utilized for a poorer, but independent topout. While addng some challenge, it would not increase the rating or quality of the line.
Eds. this is a combination of two submissions merged to avoid confusion.
A bong, bongo band, and three Leeper cam hooks.
Per Joshua Merriam: The landing when missing the crux move, or any move before, is safe even without a pad. Although pads would be nice. After the crux, you join the V2 from where falling is less recommended but not deadly.
Per Joshua Merriam: take the Bear Canyon trail toward Seal Rock. After leaving the stream, and in the middle of a massive switchback, the Bongo Boulder sits in the middle of the field. The problem line is impossible to miss.
trying to get to Sardinia
You can add some difficulty by avoiding the three middle jug/pockets. Instead, use the big, cool pinchy sloper feature that sits about 16'' below. It soaks your power just a bit before the dyno.
PUBLIC SERVICE ANNOUNCEMENT: Though the moves on this climb are fun, I'd like to point out that there are surprises lurking in every jug.
In the summer, the jugs may have wasps
Yesterday [fall], the upper jugs at about 18ft were filled with water and the dirty jugs over the lip were filled with the fallen yellow leaves of the posion ivy patch a few feet above/back.
--j.jaegerAfter recovering from the soaked hands and pump, I put my arms and face right into the ivy before I realized it.
aaggghhh. Oct 14, 2004
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