Fiddler on the Woof
5.12- YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Type: | Sport |
FA: | Alan Nelson & Greg Purnell, August 1999 |
Page Views: | 4,604 total · 22/month |
Shared By: | Nate Weitzel on Dec 31, 2000 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Description
This route is way overhung and powerful, with fun moves. However, the disappointing use of manufactured holds on this route warrants the single star rating (although these holds are bomber). This is the second route from the right side of the overhang, and ascends the steep lip using an obvious drilled slot on the face. The rating on this was initially 12c/d, but the consesus seems to be that it is actually 12a. Consider it a gym route and it will be fun and worth the effort.
Seattle, WA
Myke Jul 18, 2002
Lakewood, CO
Flagstaff, AZ
evergreen,co
Moab, UT
Denver CO
Keep your eyes out for the no-hands kneebar rest. Nov 28, 2009
Boulder, CO
Brighton by way of dirty south
Centennial, CO
BETA Alert:
For some reason, this wasn't obvious to me, so I wanted to capture this for memory. Moving off kneebar with right hand in good hold, cross left to drilled jug, right heel hook, and clip. Match hands, right foot on point and go right hand to natural flake - wrap thumb; quickly move left foot up high on nub (before moving left hand). Left hand to drilled pocket and right foot under roof - clip. Left hand to crimp, drop left foot to drilled jug, flag right; right hand to sloper, right foot to chip and shoot left hand to crack; right foot up to flake - done! Dec 31, 2014
Fucken Zion
While Mark Rololololololofson watched his buddies manufacture holds.
Is that better? Apr 17, 2017
First ascent: Alan Nelson & Greg Purnell in August 1999. Check my Clear Creek Canyon Sport Climber's Guide (1999) & (2006).
I redpointed this route numerous times between 1999 & 2006. It always felt like solid 5.12. Great fun. Best done with Run Underdog, Big Dog, then Fiddler On The Woof, & then finishing with Hot Dog for a good workout.
Lastly, Two Chains is a troll, & his comments should be deleted. May 28, 2017
Fucken Zion