Direct South Ridge

This is the recommended variation to the original South Ridge route. An inspiring, steep line from below, it offers a surprising amount of crack climbing (Colorado style at any rate). We found it to be a relatively fast grade III compared to others I've done in the Park. Hike up a short ways past the mountain's SE corner, and find a ramp that cuts back to the right. Go up that to the base of the route. The first 2 or 3 pitches are easy 5th Class, with many variations possible (usually simul-climbed). At a point where the wall steepens considerably, reach the highest of several terraces, a long ledge that runs off to the right. Almost all of the route occurs just to the right of the actual arete.

P1: (5.6, 80 ft) Face climb up and left toward the arête and belay on a small ledge beneath a right-facing corner. Face climb up and left for half a rope-length to a ledge below a right-facing dihedral (5.6).

P2: (5.9, 130 ft) Jam a good hand/fist crack up the back of the dihedral and turn the obvious airy roof with interesting moves. Follow the corner to a smaller roof that is passed on the right. Work up and right, then back left to a small ledge just right of the arete for a belay. An excellent, exposed pitch. 

P3: (5.8, 90-120 ft) Climb straight up a prominent crack through a triangular roof and belay on a small ledge on the other side of the arete/ridge. There is also a belay stance left of the arete a bit further on. Pitches 2 & 3 can be combined.

P4: (5.8+ 150 ft) Two distinct variations are possible from here. The direct route wanders onto the west face and eventually finds a 5.6 chimney which leads to a belay right on the arête. People often seem to get lost looking for this chimney - it's pretty far to the left. Prior to the chimney, there's a similar-looking slot that's closer to 5.9. Supposedly there's a 10+/11 seam somewhere in this area as well.

P5: (5.9, 190 ft) Head up and right to a beautiful, steep 5.9 crack. This pitch can easily be combined with P6, which is a 5.7 corner/groove.

The original finish (from the top of P3) is as follows:

1) from the belay, traverse right across a prominent slab for 30 feet, and ascend a series of 5.8 cracks and corners slightly up and right to a belay in a large dihedral. Per Bogdan P: "this pitch is less run out than it looks. Gear is hidden behind right-facing flakes but is plentiful enough to protect both the leader and the follower. Mind the square meter-sized triangular block at the end of the traverse. It's detached but looks deceptively stable when climbing up past it from below. It isn't until you pull over it that you'll realize how easily it could be pulled off and sever your rope. Use it sparingly."

2) climb the dihedral to the top (5.7).

Both pitches were fairly long. Both variations end on the Notch Spire directly above the descent.

A standard rack to a #3 Camalot or equivalent - two of these if you don't want to run it out or slide pro up with you.

4-5 rappels + scramble: There are two options for descent: (1) Scramble along the summit ledges to the West Gully and descend the West Gully (4th). (2) Rappel the bolted anchors on Instant Clarification (two ropes needed). The top rappel anchor is near the top of Notch Spire, but from the true summit of Notchtop you can access a lower top anchor by descending a ramp that heads down from the notch between Notch Spire and the summit. We chose to rappel Instant Clarification.