Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Visor

Absolute Boulder Canyon S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Bone Home S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dyno Monkey S,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Flying Machines S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flying Rubber Monkey Canyon S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Geek in the Creek S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hair of the Dog S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rubberneck S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Welcome Wagon S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, TR
FA: Chris Alber, 2000
Page Views: 235 total, 1/month
Shared By: Peter Franzen on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


15 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This route is on The Visor, which is a small, overhanging wall at the top end of the Surprising Crag. The route takes the steepest line possible up the left side of the wall, connecting some obvious jugs. It starts about 10 or 15 feet from the left edge of the wall. NOTE: this is the most heavily modified piece of rock I have ever seen or could ever imagine. There is no way on Earth that the jugs on this thing could have even started out as natural holds. All are completely comfortized for your dynoing pleasure. That said, it is fun, and the huge dyno is great for photo-ops. Also, the grade is probably more like a mid-5.11 (other sources call it 12b, however), but if you're short, it is more difficult.

Protection

6 quickdraws (including 2 for the anchor). All bolts are brand new and totally bomber, and there are two rap bolts at the top.
Mark Rolofson
  5.12a
Mark Rolofson  
  5.12a
The route has some very positive holds. This climb is more about power & strength, less about subtle technique. Dynos do require technique & practice to perfect. Sport Park is a great place for that. The crux dyno is pretty wild & finishing it out is still powerful. A fun, short, very overhanging route.

I can see how someone would call this .11d, but there is a point where downrating a climb is really a great way to flex your ego & draw attention to yourself. Calling this route about the same grade as Flying Machines (.11a/b) is pretty silly. I can think of numerous people who can climb most .11c or d routes but would struggle to send this route. Clearly rating are subjective. If dynoing & hanging by one arm with feet dangling is your thing, then this route is for you.

There are 4 bolts / 2 Fixe rings on this route. Best advice is don't try to clip the anchor until you are on the long horizontal jug off to the right. Jul 28, 2017
TBlom
5.11b
TBlom  
5.11b
The only 12 I've ever been to the anchors on. Sport Park is also home of the only 11d I've redpointed. Oh well, still had a great time on the route. A fun TR because no one gets to dog around after they fall off. I love huge jugs up overhangs, too bad they are man made. I'll do it again for sure though. Aug 29, 2004
Great route and movement! A little soft though...wouldn't call it 12b, but well worth doing! Feb 26, 2004
Well, it's probably a number grade too high. A similar, but harder route at Smith Rocks (Toxic), is rated 11b. Jul 6, 2001