Type: Trad, TR, Ice, 110 ft (33 m)
FA: unknown to me
Page Views: 726 total · 3/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Feb 5, 2003
Admins: Edward Medina, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description

This climb is located in the lower part of the canyon, near the entrance to Box Canyon. It is, as of 2003, the second-most downhill part of the Ice Park (just upstream from the Gazebo area). It is most easily found by locating the bricked outhouse downstream from the lower bridge of the Ouray Ice Park. It is downstream from the Men's Room end (downhill) of the building. It is currently the 3rd most downhill of ice blobs in this area.To TR, find a large tree and use extra long slings to extend the belay spot to beyond the fence. You can add a good directional with a ice screw or two at the top of the ice blob. To lead, it is probably easiest to rap in. Note, a single 60m rope may not quite reach the river bottom. The ice can be quite fragile due to the abundant sunshine bathing this wall. Beware of falling ice if you belay from below.

Ascend 60 feet of easier ice, thin in spots from the river bottom to base of the double pillars. This can form a shell of ice above the good ice below. Good stomping on the rappel can reduce the quantity of ice hammering your belayer if he/she lies below. Get a great rest here. Stem up a short vertical to overhanging pillar for about 15 feet. Note, the ice can cleave off in large chunks on this section due to the solar effect on the ice. I took a good chunk to the neck on this bit.

Protection

Screws/slings.

Toprope Protection

Long slings to reach the big tree to the left of this route. Ice screws help as a directional.

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