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Routes in Upper Falls - Ice

Back in Black S WI4+ M7+
Cheap Thrills T WI4+
Master of Puppets T,TR M8-9 R
Pencil aka Candlestick, The T WI4-5
Slabs, The T WI3
Thriller T WI5-
Unknown T WI4-
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Type: Trad, Ice, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,728 total · 9/month
Shared By: Ben Hoyt on Dec 23, 2002
Admins: Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Leo Paik, John McNamee

You & This Route

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Description [Edit]

This can be as easy as WI4- (ice is fat, using the Pencil start), to as hard as M6 (yellow version) or M7 (green version) with verglas ice conditions and a short curtain. For thin ice: ***; for fat ice: *; for medium ice: *, but it is scary as hell.

The starts are: 1) this fall, before the hose for the Pencil had been put in place, the Pencil didn't exist. Right now, when the Pencil is in, it covers up the cool, easy drytool crack that is drawn in yellow (note that the crack is totally covered in ice in the picture - yellow doesn't go up the pencil, but I used yellow to draw where the crack is when the pencil isn't covering it up). A medium nut and a #0.75ish Camalot size cam go protect this crack nicely. Then, you tool-traverse the slightly sloping ledge until you hit the thin, broken curtain. From there, you pull up, and simply follow the red line to the top. This is the most strenuous start, but, when the Pencil is in, it makes everything quite a bit easier, as you simply poke up the pencil for 8 feet until you hit the ledge. (Start up the Pencil outlined in Red).

2) Go directly up the face, in green... this is about 3 moves (depending on how much ice has built up on the ledge you are standing on to start), maybe 4, to hit the ice. There is no pro, and the hooks are very small and difficult. I've only done this variation on top rope. Later in the season, the ice gets a lot fatter (it is sort of medium in this picture), and you can get a screw in higher up on the right side of the dihedral.

Protection [Edit]

Fat ice: three screws (even fat ice would necessitate 17cm or possibly less). Thin ice: varies, but a #0.5, 1, 1.5 Camalot sizes, a green Alien have fit into the various cracks. Medium ice: you're screwed because there isn't enough ice for a screw, and the ice has filled the cracks.

Descent: see info for Pencil, same thing. For all the variations, you follow the upper part of the red line to the top. When the cracks aren't full of ice (early in the season), a #0.5, 1, and 1.5 Camalot sizes, and one green Alien, are the only pro necessary on the upper (common) part. The pro is super good, as long as the cracks aren't iced up too badly.

Toprope Protection [Edit]

There are lots of various trees/stumps/sticks above this route.


Tyler Kempney
Boulder, CO
Tyler Kempney   Boulder, CO
Climbed this today without any ice and found it to be a phenomenal mixed corner with tricky placements through the roof and great protection the whole way! After pulling the roof, just make sure the rope doesn't get pinched in the roof crack! Definitely recommended! I would give it a M6+ rating following the yellow line in the picture provided in the Candlestick picture. Nov 28, 2015

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