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Routes in Upper Falls - Ice

Back in Black S WI4+ M7+
Cheap Thrills T WI4+
Master of Puppets T,TR M8-9 R
Pencil aka Candlestick, The T WI4-5
Slabs, The T WI3
Thriller T WI5-
Unknown T WI4-
Type: Trad, Ice, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,556 total, 3/month
Shared By: Chris Zeller on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This flow forms a thick, wide sheet that can accommodate at least three parties. The routes are generally easier and shorter from right to left. However, when the climb is in thin condition (as shown) the right-most climbs offer some interesting mixed climbing options. In cold conditions, mid winter, the start to the left-most climb often has a short, but interesting vertical free-hanging curtain.

Descent: Head right along the aqueduct and scramble down rocks and easy ice to the base of the climb. In the Fall of 2000, a fixed rope with knots every foot was could be used to aid the decent (as always, evaluate the safety of this aid yourself and use it at your own risk). Alternately, continue farther along the aqueduct and follow a trail to the base.

Protection

Screws Mid-season long screws can be used, bring some rock pro for early season mixed climbs.

Toprope Protection

Sling bushes above the climb. Back up with rebar from the aqueduct or rock pro as a needed. Bring 10-20 ft slings.

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