On the left side of Upper Falls, before the tree, lies a system of cracks. Start on good positive holds to the horizontal crack. Some tricky moves on increasingly worse edges leads to the crux (getting from here to the knife-blade crack without bailing out right to the shelf). Then up the crack, pick placements range from decent hooks, to tiny nubbins when the crack closes. Traverse right via the crack system, and step out to the pillar. Stem, hang, whatever your fancy may be, but tread lightly on the ice if it is not touched down. There is not very much ice hanging on to the rock at the top out. Find the two bolt anchor on your left and belay.