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Routes in Firehouse Area

2nd Leftmost of Left of Right T WI5 M4
East of The West, The T WI2-3
Eastern Xpansion S WI4+ M6+
Feel the Pressure S M8- PG13
Firehouse Pillar T WI4-5
Lowe Angle T,S M5
Lowe Gravity Day T WI4-5
Lowe Pressure T WI5 M6
Meat Puppets WI5 M7+
Modus Operandi M7-
Rehab M6+
Silver Tongued Devil WI5+ M6
Unknown? WI5 M6-7
West Corner T,TR WI3+ M4
West of The East, The T WI2
Type: Trad, Ice
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,725 total, 13/month
Shared By: Chris Zeller on Jan 19, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Description

This climb is actually two climbs separated by rock. Each climb has many variations depending upon conditions. Because of the variety of routes on this climb, I believe a range of grades is more accurate than the WI4 rating listed in the Roberts book. The left-most climb forms in a steep 70 degree slab interrupted by bulges. The right-most climb is more varied and forms into a steep pillar, curtains and caves depending upon the conditions. The left side follows some technical gently overhanging ice through a narrow cave and up to some lower angle ~65 degree ice. The middle follows up a steep vertical step ~20 feet high to a small ledge. From here, there are two choices. Move left onto another vertical pillar for more, steep, chandeliered climbing to the top (this may not be formed all the way to the ledge. In this case, climb the rock and move onto the hanging icicles). Alternately, for a moderate finish, move right above the ledge onto the ~65 degree ice and climb to the top.

Descent: Rappel slings and rap rings from trees at the top. There are separate anchors for the slab on the left and the pillar on the right.

Protection

Screws, the ice is usually thick enough to take long screws.

Toprope Protection

There are good anchors on top consisting of several fixed slings and rap rings around a large tree. An additional ~10 foot sling and a biner for a backup is a good idea. One 60m rope is sufficient.
Trevor Nydam  
 
Nice mixed traverse behind the curtain between what I believe is Left of Right and Lowe Gravity Day. Started on the right most vertical section of L of R and moved behind the curtain on to the rock. Thin but solid feet and tool placements are bomber. No rock pro placements. Moved back onto ice behind pillar on left side of LGD. I was lucky to have room to sneak behind and on up to anchors. Good time. WI3+M2?? Pics may help make sense of my description. Jan 14, 2006
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
This is also known as Right of Right. There is also a way to traverse in from the climb to the Left via a short rock traverse should the ice pillar not touch down. Jan 20, 2004
Chris Zeller
Boulder, CO
 
Chris Zeller   Boulder, CO
 
On Lowe Gravity Day, the anchors directly over the climb are looking a bit sketchy. At the top of the climb an assortment of slings are hanging from some iced up willows and logs. Ignore these and haul yourself over the bushes about 10 feet up. There you will find two bomber bolts with rap rings in a solid block. Use these anchors for a TR or rappel. The bolts are directly over the right hand side slabs. If you want to climb the pillar to the left use the anchors below or a screw only as a directional. Jan 14, 2002