Type: Trad, Ice
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,098 total · 14/month
Shared By: Chris Zeller on Jan 19, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This climb is actually two climbs separated by rock. Each climb has many variations depending upon conditions. Because of the variety of routes on this climb, I believe a range of grades is more accurate than the WI4 rating listed in the Roberts book. The left-most climb forms in a steep 70 degree slab interrupted by bulges. The right-most climb is more varied and forms into a steep pillar, curtains and caves depending upon the conditions. The left side follows some technical gently overhanging ice through a narrow cave and up to some lower angle ~65 degree ice. The middle follows up a steep vertical step ~20 feet high to a small ledge. From here, there are two choices. Move left onto another vertical pillar for more, steep, chandeliered climbing to the top (this may not be formed all the way to the ledge. In this case, climb the rock and move onto the hanging icicles). Alternately, for a moderate finish, move right above the ledge onto the ~65 degree ice and climb to the top.

Descent: Rappel slings and rap rings from trees at the top. There are separate anchors for the slab on the left and the pillar on the right.

Protection

Screws, the ice is usually thick enough to take long screws.

Toprope Protection

There are good anchors on top consisting of several fixed slings and rap rings around a large tree. An additional ~10 foot sling and a biner for a backup is a good idea. One 60m rope is sufficient.

Photos