Type: Trad, TR, Mixed, Ice, 95 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,159 total · 20/month
Shared By: Rob Griz on Feb 10, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

This is a great trad line indeed! Not all routes need a name, but out of simplicity, I like to think of it as the "West Corner".

Climb the beautiful, gear eating crack/corner, past some thin ice blobs (can be the crux depending on the amount/quality of ice) to the upper corners. I personally liked the 1st of 2 right-facing corners as an exit. It is cleaner, has a killer hand and finger jams, and deals with less vegetation. Of course, you could continue up the 2nd corner or trend further right onto the anchor of the easy WI3 ice.

Due to the excellent natural protection options, no bolts have been placed on this line. There are plenty of trees above to set anchors from. Enjoy!

Location

This is in a right-facing corner on the far left side of Firehouse West, super obvious, can't miss it.

Protection

Bring a single set rack of 2" down to the smaller cams (0 BD TCUs). Nuts not really necessary. The route eats up cams, so fun. 2 stubbies are good and the top-out can vary.

Photos

Chacal  
I placed today a sling anchor with a quick-link at the tree 15ft straight from the top, so no need to bushwalk to the anchors of the main ice flow to the right. Suuuuuuuuuuper fun route! Mar 5, 2012