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Routes in Old Peculiar

Freon T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hanus Anus T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Knee On T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Offwidth Their Heads T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Old Peculiar T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sayonara T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sun and Steel T,S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Yodeler T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: Dave and Mike Hatchett and Rick Lovelace
Page Views: 60 total, 0/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on Oct 17, 2003
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The left-most established climb on Old Peculiar, Hanus Anus begins with a very overhung crack in a dihedral. After the two bolts protecting the crack head right to get over the roof, then up a layback flake which ends yielding some stemming moves before you reach the top. Tape up for the bottom crack!

Protection

Two bolts low and one high protect Hanus Anus. You'll probably also need a nut or two around .5" to protect the crack above the roof and either slings or medium-sized cams will make a suitable anchor.

If you wanted to, you could lead Hanus Anus purely trad. #2 to #3 cams would fit nicely in the bottom crack.

For setting up a top rope, hike around the left of Old Peculiar then find the old wind-blown tree that is depicted in Carville's topo. From there, downclimb some class three for about 15 feet to a large ledge where Off-Width Their Heads, Sun and Steel and Hanus Anus all finish. Heinous Anus is on the right side of the ledge.

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