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Routes in Old Peculiar

Freon T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hanus Anus T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Knee On T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Offwidth Their Heads T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Old Peculiar T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sayonara T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sun and Steel T,S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Yodeler T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, TR, 50 ft
FA: Dave and Mike Hatchett and Rick Lovelace
Page Views: 598 total, 3/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on Oct 17, 2003
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Sun and Steel is a good granite face climb. Most of the climbing is less than vertical, but a couple small roofs and a short vertical section near the top make it memorable.

Begin just left of Off-Width Their Heads (the odvious off-width crack) and work through the foot-less start to a tricky face that finally leads to the crux roof. After pulling the roof, there's about 15 feet of 5.8 or 9 crack climbing. After the crack you're left with a steep face before the climbing lets off as you gain the anchors.

In my opinion this route should be called 'Off With Their Shins' because messing up on the crux roof is likely to cause some bleeding in your shins... believe me.

Protection

4 bolts to a two bolt anchor. It would be wise to bring some nuts for the crack between the second and third bolts. Failure to do so gives this climb a serious rating, though this runout section isn't nearly as difficult as the rest of the climb.

For setting up a top rope, hike around the left of Old Peculiar then find the old wind-blown tree that is depicted in Carville's topo. From there, downclimb some class three for about 15 feet to a large ledge where Off-Width Their Heads, Sun and Steel and Hanus Anus all finish.

Photos

HarrisonE
  5.11c PG13
HarrisonE  
  5.11c PG13
I placed a small piece in the side/undercling jug for the first few moves, but the flake seemed to flex, I think it would have popped if I fell, but it gave me confidence to get to first bolt. The run out section between the 2nd and 3rd bolt wasn't hard compared to pulling the roof, but you need to keep it together. Don't think the climb is over after pulling the roof because you still have a 5.11 move after clipping the 3rd bolt. Apr 26, 2013