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Routes in Old Peculiar

Freon T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hanus Anus T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Knee On T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Offwidth Their Heads T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Old Peculiar T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sayonara T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sun and Steel T,S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Yodeler T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: Rick Cashner and Mike Corbett, 1979
Page Views: 154 total · 1/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on Oct 17, 2003
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Offwidth Their Heads is the easiest crack to spot, located right in the middle of Old Peculiar's lake-facing wall.

If you start in the crack, you're in for a bush-whack for the first 15 feet. To avoid this, start right of the crack on a broken chunk of granite (still easy to protect) then join the climb at the chimney section above all the flora. After another 10 feet of chimney, the off-width begins. Enjoy!

Protection

Two or three 4" cams will be needed to protect the off-width section of the climb. Near the top, you could clip the last bolt of Sun and Steel if you find yourself running low on cams. The lower portion of the climb is pretty easy to protect with gear around an inch in size.

At the top, you can either make an anchor in the crack or use the bolted top-anchor for Sun and Steel. (The two routes are closer together than Carville's topo indicates.)

For setting up a top rope, hike around the left of Old Peculiar then find the old wind-blown tree that is depicted in Carville's topo. From there, downclimb some class three for about 15 feet to a large ledge where Offwidth Their Heads, Sun and Steel and Hanus Anus all finish.

Photos

426
426  
Soft for the grade, compared to other routes in SLT.

Still worthy. Mar 6, 2007
Andy W
Fort Collins, CO
 
Andy W   Fort Collins, CO
 
Fun line, even with the funky start. Climbing around the trees on the direct start wasn't a problem, the dirt in the thin crack from lack of use was. Strenuous at the top but obtainable. Anchors on the route next to it were hangers only, no rings or chains. Sep 2, 2017

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