Type: Sport, TR, 40 ft
FA: Morgan/Nunez, 2001
Page Views: 4,186 total · 22/month
Shared By: jared toettcher on Aug 23, 2003
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Description

This route is FUN FUN FUN, and unique!

This route begins on the arete on the left side of the Treasure Chest area, and is the second bolt line from the left. Climb up the left face of the arete - holds around the arete are on route as well - and into the strange roof-chimney. Climb out of the chimney and up on the right side of the slightly overhung face above it.

I may be a little overly cautious giving this route the 's' rating, but climbing above the third bolt probably should scare you. Once over the roof you can't see your last clip, and remember: that bolt was drilled in overhung sandstone.

Protection

4 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

Great route! I have to admit I am glad I was topping it, going over the last bolt is nerve racking. Well worth the climb though. As an added bonus on your way down have your belayer stop you 3/4 of the way down and just take a moment to soak in some of the best scenery around while the waves crash below you. Sep 22, 2003
Vlad S
  5.10c PG13
Vlad S  
  5.10c PG13
Not nearly as fun as it's hyped up to be. Actually quite terrifying, especially if you have to lead it on a soaking wet rope. Also a bit runout after the 3rd (and last) bolt to the anchor. However, at least the brand new glue-ins are super safe thanks to Jimi's rebolting efforts! Jul 20, 2015
lwhyte
 
lwhyte  
 
Loved this route. It's true that it's a bit hairy above the 3rd bolt, but only b/c it's sandstone: jugs abound and the stance for anchor clipping is solid. Pulling out of the chimney with the waves crashing below is absolutely amazing... at least, in retrospect it's amazing. Aug 23, 2015
Epic! 5.9 if you're a trad climber. 5.11 if you're a boulderer. Apr 21, 2016
Darshan Ahluwalia
Petaluma, CA
  5.10a PG13
Darshan Ahluwalia   Petaluma, CA
  5.10a PG13
Best route I have done at Salt Point!

The 10a grading is accurate. This route has multiple cruxes and is quite sustained.

I took a few cams and slings, placed one in the corner below the roof and extended it with three slings.

It is quite a heady lead not because the pro is bad or runout but the exposure climbing through the roof is incredible.

Route photo: mountainproject.com/v/11182… May 2, 2016
sean burke
Concord, Ca
sean burke   Concord, Ca
Other than the center glue in at the anchor, The bolts up top are not very trust worthy. Hanging belay on two spinners in gritty.....I stepped over Left and up to the 2 SMC bolts and a better stance. Jun 6, 2016
Natenak
  5.10d PG13
Natenak  
  5.10d PG13
The Bay Area Rock guidebook has it at 10c. I consistently onsite 11a, but struggled figuring out the sequence for this one. Even after sending it several times, there's no way I'd give it 10a. 10c at a minimum. But it is a great climb! Nov 16, 2016