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Routes in The Treasure Chest

Blue Beard S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Booty S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Captain Crunch S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Captain Hook S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Red Beard S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Salty Dog S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Spread Eagle (aka Gritty Kitty) T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Steve Bosque and Lars Johnson, 1970s
Page Views: 1,662 total, 10/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on Sep 20, 2003
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

The left-facing corner on the right side of the Treasure Chest, Gritty Kitty is a comfortable lead for those learning to trad climb. The gear placements are surprisingly solid for sandstone and there are plenty of rests along the way.

Protection

Gear up to 5 inches and a 2 bolt top anchor up top.

Photos

lars johnson
San Francisco, CA
lars johnson   San Francisco, CA
Steve Bosque and I climbed this route and several other trad lines at Salt Point back in the mid to late 1970's. It was our ethic to never use any fixed pro or even chalk! I remember looking at the wall to the left of "Gritty Kitty" and thinking that someday someone much better than we were would do this climb.Hats off to the new wave of bold sea cliff climbers.I do have some concern about the proliferation of bolts and their longterm safety.Any bolt placed in sandstone is suspect, but then add salt water and you have a recipe for disaster.They may look good on the outside, but behind the scenes insidious rot is occuring. As climbers we want to leave a legacy of beautiful and creative routes that will stand the test of time.I'm already seeing rusty stubs sticking out of parts of sentinal rock. We as climbers need to guard how others [ie the rangers and public] perceive us or our priviledge may be taken from us.We always felt that Salt Point was a cherished and sacred place, once home to Pomo Indians.It was our ethic to leave no trace. My sense is that existing and future efforts could easily be toproped, but of course these are the futile ravings of a senile old man.The coarse but porous nature of the rock will show our prescence long after we are gone if we tread heavily.

By the way, "Gritty Kiity" was originally named "Spread Eagle" and clocked in at 5.8. But then in EB's with hexes it might have been!I'll try to find an old slide of this route and scan it. I remember being scared shitless as the tide was crashing over the belay. Aug 20, 2005
It seems the top anchors have been chopped. From just a quick inspection it looked like decent-ish natural anchors can be found way back from the cliff. Just a heads up, setting up a TR would be a pain, or at least need 30' of chord. Would be four stars with an easier anchor. Nov 19, 2017
Fun warm up. Great hands and feet the whole way up. Not a lot to say here, just your standard sandstone ladder. Sep 22, 2003