PRINT: Rock Climb Captain Hook, San Francisco Bay Area

Captain Hook

5.10b R, Sport, TR, 40 ft (12 m),

Avg: 3.6 from 22 votes
FA: Morgan/Nunez, 2001
California > San Francisco B… > Wine Country/No… > Salt Point SP > Treasure Chest

Description

This route is FUN FUN FUN, and unique!

This route begins on the arete on the left side of the Treasure Chest area, and is the second bolt line from the left. Climb up the left face of the arete - holds around the arete are on route as well - and into the strange roof-chimney. Climb out of the chimney and up on the right side of the slightly overhung face above it.

I may be a little overly cautious giving this route the 's' rating, but climbing above the third bolt probably should scare you. Once over the roof you can't see your last clip, and remember: that bolt was drilled in overhung sandstone.

Protection

4 bolts to a 2-bolt titanium glue-in anchor (walk-off).

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Sierra passing the second bolt of Captain Hook

The Treasure Chest

Greg Salazar replacing the anchors of "Captain Hook" while Samuel Levin works on rebolting "Red Beard" in the background.

Slightly spicy even to start!

Aron reaching up for the big hold above the roof. Copyright Brian Quiter 2003.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Avery Worthing-Jones

Great route! I have to admit I am glad I was topping it, going over the last bolt is nerve racking. Well worth the climb though. As an added bonus on your way down have your belayer stop you 3/4 of the way down and just take a moment to soak in some of the best scenery around while the waves crash below you. Sep 22, 2003

Vlad S
San Francisco, CA

5.10c PG13

Not nearly as fun as it's hyped up to be. Actually quite terrifying, especially if you have to lead it on a soaking wet rope. Also a bit runout after the 3rd (and last) bolt to the anchor. However, at least the brand new glue-ins are super safe thanks to Jimi's rebolting efforts! Jul 20, 2015

lwhyte

Loved this route. It's true that it's a bit hairy above the 3rd bolt, but only b/c it's sandstone: jugs abound and the stance for anchor clipping is solid. Pulling out of the chimney with the waves crashing below is absolutely amazing... at least, in retrospect it's amazing. Aug 23, 2015

Samuel Trimboli

Epic! 5.9 if you're a trad climber. 5.11 if you're a boulderer. Apr 21, 2016

Darshan Ahluwalia
Orange, CA

5.10a PG13

Best route I have done at Salt Point!

The 10a grading is accurate. This route has multiple cruxes and is quite sustained.

I took a few cams and slings, placed one in the corner below the roof and extended it with three slings.

It is quite a heady lead not because the pro is bad or runout but the exposure climbing through the roof is incredible.

Route photo: mountainproject.com/v/11182… May 2, 2016

Sean Burke
Concord, CA

Other than the center glue in at the anchor, The bolts up top are not very trust worthy. Hanging belay on two spinners in gritty.....I stepped over Left and up to the 2 SMC bolts and a better stance. Jun 6, 2016

Natenak

5.10d PG13

The Bay Area Rock guidebook has it at 10c. I consistently onsite 11a, but struggled figuring out the sequence for this one. Even after sending it several times, there's no way I'd give it 10a. 10c at a minimum. But it is a great climb! Nov 16, 2016

Cameron Cutting
San Francisco, CA

5.10-

This route is safe. Just don't be a dingus and fall out of the 5.5 chimney before you clip bolt 4. It might feel high but it would be a clean fall anyways. Awesome setting. May 1, 2023

Connor Novak
No longer SF

BACC July 2025 team replaced the two bad stainless anchor bolts with a new titanium glue-in. Thanks, Greg, for the hard work on removal, drilling, and gluing while cowering from periodic falcon patrol.

There is no lower-off hardware on the anchor - to clean, traverse left on good jugs, then 4th class upwards. There are two old SMC bolts on the ledge to your left that should not be fallen on, but work as mental pro if you PAS into them while making the move. Jul 19, 2025