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Routes in Indian Rock

Embryonic Journey V2 5+
Ankle Buster V0 4 R
Ape Traverse, The V3 6A
Ape, The V2 5+
Bubble, The V5 6C
Center Overhang (aka Pitfall) TR V3 6A R
Crack, The V2 5+
Edge Slab, The V1 5
Flake Traverse V3 6A
Frosted Flakes V1 5
Indian ArĂȘte V0 4
Indian Rock Traverse V5 6C
Little Prow V2 5+
No Hands Route V2 5+
Overhang to Arete V1 5
Overhung Roof V0 4
Overhung Wall - Right Exit V0 4 R
Pegboard V1 5
Seam, The V7 7A+ R
Six Hold Traverse V2 5+
Transportation Crack TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a V-easy 3
Watercourse TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b V1 5 R
White Men Can't Jump V? ?
Type: TR, Boulder, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,773 total, 25/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Dec 23, 2001
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Tons of eliminates in the section, this is only the easiest one. To find this climb, go into the main bouldering section on the rock. Wander over to the most set-in section of the rock by the chimney. This climb works the Watercourse area, which is the vertical wall directly right of the chimney. A prominent oval can be seen about 10 feet off the ground on the left section of this rock.

For the simple route, start on the crack system to the right about 10 feet of the chimney. Work your way up a flake - like section to the oval.

Crux is all hands.

To get off the route, you can work your way around to the left, you can continue up to the top of the rock via some simple (5.3 or so) climbing, or you can just jump off.

Protection

A crashpad would be nice.

Photos

kennethsime
Berkeley, California
V2-3 PG13
kennethsime   Berkeley, California
V2-3 PG13
I really felt the crux here was in the polished footwork. It feels more like V3 if you're not great with your feet.

With last year's Access Fund cleanup, you really have to watch your landing. There's a big exposed rock which hurts a lot if not padded properly. Nov 17, 2014
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
There was a problem I remember, I think it is this area. The crux involved palming off a slippery knob. After utterly failing many times at this problem, I remember buying my first pair of Fires (first sticky shoes for those who don't know). I immediately drove to Indian Rock to attempt my nemesis - guess what, they didn't help at all, I still couldn't do it! Eventually, though, after learning the subtle body position I found I could do it easily, even in tennis shoes or bare feet. I suppose this is the magic of bouldering, although I have rarely had such moments. Jan 7, 2003
Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA
 
Aron Quiter   Oakland, CA  
 
Well, it took me more than a month, but I'm finally making headway with my map of Indian Rock. It's looking so neat I'm tempted to make ones of everywhere!

Dec 14, 2002
This route was what first fueled my climbing passion, back in '87 when I first started climbing. Indian Rock was where I first started climbing, and this route was my first project! I have many fond memories or working this route, including (while I was still struggling with it) watching Galen Rowell style this route with one hand - not the beginner's crack, but watercourse. Being young and completely ignorant about climbing, I was convinced I was in the presence of some climbing mega-star, and asked "Do you climb 5.13?!?" -- what a geek! He just laughed, and said "uh, no...".

Like Alan, this route will become just part of circuit of your I-rock routine, once its wired. It is an integral part of Indian Rock Traverse, and it gets downclimbed as part of the "There And Back Again" I-rock Traverse. And, doing it with one hand is a great challenge that builds balance.

Also, there are literally a dozens (!) or really fun variations/eliminates in this 10-foot wide swathe of rock, ranging from V1- (what I think this easiest variation should be rated...just my opinion) to V-quite hard (7? 8? ...), but they're so specific and contrived that explaining them anywhere other than right in front of them seems impossible. Try to find someone who knows this area well next time you're there, and have them show you some. Nov 22, 2002
Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA
 
Aron Quiter   Oakland, CA  
 
The photos and hence spread I wanted to take got sidelined because someone stole my digital camera. I'm looking into a few alternative methods for getting pictures for the area, but none of them have panned out yet. It will happen! Sep 16, 2002
Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA
 
Aron Quiter   Oakland, CA  
 
I think you're confused... The watercourse are would not be a very wise downclimb, there's only one route up it that's "simple".... V2 may be a little overrated, but that's what it's rated at.

You might be thinking of the section of rock that's immediately to the right of the watercourse area, which has a downclimb in it, and is probably 5.3 - 5.4.

I'm going to put together a linked imagemap of indian rock with pictures of ALL the sections of rock, but I haven't had time to get up there in a while, nor have I had time to put together the outline of the area. Gimme a month, it should get done! Jul 27, 2002