Type: Boulder, 20 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,470 total · 17/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Aug 27, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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This route ascends the large flake just to the right of the overhung wall (V0). This is located around the corner to the right from the main chimney, near the log benches.

Start on up the lower-right side of the flake, and head up and left until the flake ends. Head left off the flake with a reachy move to a large crimp on the right side of the overhung wall. The crux is moving over to the overhung wall sidepull near the top.

Another variation involves matching the crimp before moving your legs over.


a crashpad or some buddies. You'll probably find a crashpad already underneath this route.


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This is definitely NOT a V4. Maybe a V2...probably a V1+ Sep 11, 2002
I agree, the flake is defnitely not a V4, V1+ sounds about right. Thats what I figure, the hardest problem I've ever finished was V2, and that was harder than the flake. Nov 7, 2002
The crux is a VERY slipery left hand slopper/pinch grip that is a difficult hold if your hand is not large, and it is a loooong layback/reach for shorter climbers. V-3 seems like a reasonable rating. Jul 16, 2003
Didnt anyone read the "don't be a jerk" guideline? V1+? Give me a f'n break. Downrating it after you have it wired is poor form. Jul 19, 2003
Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA
Aron Quiter   Oakland, CA  
You guys CAN vote on the ratings, which will upgrade it or downgrade it. You can also vote on the stars for the route. From the "comment form", which is reached by clicking on "add a comment" on any route, click on advanced. This give you tons of ways that you can directly change how the route is rated on the site. Jul 20, 2003

  • **

v-3 Jul 22, 2003
this problem all depends on height. when i was first working on it i was about 5' 3" but i made up some short people beta which was about a V3. now i can do the normal way, which i think, if you can make the reach easily is about a V2. but all of the problems at Indian Rock are debateable. they are all eliminates which makes them all very height dependant. Aug 4, 2003
Falls Church, VA
roberts.chris   Falls Church, VA
compared to the other Indian rock v-2s this route is WAY harder. I aced a lot of the easy routes, but this one took some time to get. I would say this is at least a solid v-3. Dec 22, 2008
If you're tall with a decent ape index you're going to be able to bypass the crux like my friend did, but for us shorter folks you gotta commit to the crux. Maybe in the Buttermilks it'd be a V2 but in Berkeley it's def a V3 Jan 3, 2014
Bidimpata-Kerim Tshimanga
Isla Vista, California
Bidimpata-Kerim Tshimanga   Isla Vista, California
I think the confusion here lies in the route description. The Flake Traverse is NOT next to overhung wall. It is located on the other side of this area starting where The Bubble (V5) starts but exiting left joining Pegboard (V1) instead of moving straight up through the pocket. See in a color picture route 38 in the new Bay Area climbing guidebook. I am comfortable calling this either V3+ or V4-. V3 and V4 aren't really that different difficulty-wise so take your pick.

On a side note: Stylistic preferences can make a difference in up to 2 V-grades in how difficult a problem feels. I've flashed V5's that felt like V2 or V3 and flailed on others that felt like V7. Jun 2, 2014
Karsten Walker
Oakland, CA
Karsten Walker   Oakland, CA
It seems from Youtube that most people have no clue what this problem actually is. Most people exit to the left with the huge feet and hand holds when you actually go straight up at the end of the flake, which is a long reach to a pinch and then a large jug.

This is the route in the Bay Area Rocks book, which has it as a 4. For whatever reason there are very few people that seem to follow the line in that book, which most local people seem to understand. Sep 16, 2017
Antonio Ting
San Francisco
Antonio Ting   San Francisco
Alternate beta for the crux involves performing a gaston against the sidepull right below the sloper/crimp. Apr 22, 2018