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Routes in Indian Rock

Embryonic Journey V2 5+
Ankle Buster V0 4 R
Ape Traverse, The V3 6A
Ape, The V2 5+
Bubble, The V5 6C
Center Overhang (aka Pitfall) TR V3 6A R
Crack, The V2 5+
Edge Slab, The V1 5
Flake Traverse V3 6A
Frosted Flakes V1 5
Indian ArĂȘte V0 4
Indian Rock Traverse V5 6C
Little Prow V2 5+
No Hands Route V2 5+
Overhang to Arete V1 5
Overhung Roof V0 4
Overhung Wall - Right Exit V0 4 R
Pegboard V1 5
Seam, The V7 7A+ R
Six Hold Traverse V2 5+
Transportation Crack TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a V-easy 3
Watercourse TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b V1 5 R
White Men Can't Jump V? ?
Type: Boulder, 20 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,909 total, 16/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Aug 27, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route ascends the large flake just to the right of the overhung wall (V0). This is located around the corner to the right from the main chimney, near the log benches.

Start on up the lower-right side of the flake, and head up and left until the flake ends. Head left off the flake with a reachy move to a large crimp on the right side of the overhung wall. The crux is moving over to the overhung wall sidepull near the top.

Another variation involves matching the crimp before moving your legs over.

Protection

a crashpad or some buddies. You'll probably find a crashpad already underneath this route.

Photos

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Karsten Walker
Oakland, CA
Karsten Walker   Oakland, CA
It seems from Youtube that most people have no clue what this problem actually is. Most people exit to the left with the huge feet and hand holds when you actually go straight up at the end of the flake, which is a long reach to a pinch and then a large jug.

This is the route in the Bay Area Rocks book, which has it as a 4. For whatever reason there are very few people that seem to follow the line in that book, which most local people seem to understand. Sep 16, 2017
Bidimpata-Kerim Tshimanga
Isla Vista, California
  V3-4
Bidimpata-Kerim Tshimanga   Isla Vista, California
  V3-4
I think the confusion here lies in the route description. The Flake Traverse is NOT next to overhung wall. It is located on the other side of this area starting where The Bubble (V5) starts but exiting left joining Pegboard (V1) instead of moving straight up through the pocket. See in a color picture route 38 in the new Bay Area climbing guidebook. I am comfortable calling this either V3+ or V4-. V3 and V4 aren't really that different difficulty-wise so take your pick.

On a side note: Stylistic preferences can make a difference in up to 2 V-grades in how difficult a problem feels. I've flashed V5's that felt like V2 or V3 and flailed on others that felt like V7. Jun 2, 2014
Caliza
V3
Caliza  
V3
If you're tall with a decent ape index you're going to be able to bypass the crux like my friend did, but for us shorter folks you gotta commit to the crux. Maybe in the Buttermilks it'd be a V2 but in Berkeley it's def a V3 Jan 3, 2014
roberts.chris
Falls Church, VA
  V3-4
roberts.chris   Falls Church, VA
  V3-4
compared to the other Indian rock v-2s this route is WAY harder. I aced a lot of the easy routes, but this one took some time to get. I would say this is at least a solid v-3. Dec 22, 2008
Some variations for you to have fun with, if youre bored with the flake...

-Try sit-starting way down and right around the corner by the stairs, and don't touch the big ledges under the flake!
-For the crux move, go to the ear instead of the flat edge of the jed-clampett hold (easier if you can reach.)
-Gaston on the snatch hold instead of using the jed-clampett hold (the same difficulty but it looks cooler)

And for the record id say v1 for a tall person reaching all the way to the ear, v2 using the standard beta, v3 if you start way around right and dont use the big ledges at all. Mar 13, 2007
this problem all depends on height. when i was first working on it i was about 5' 3" but i made up some short people beta which was about a V3. now i can do the normal way, which i think, if you can make the reach easily is about a V2. but all of the problems at Indian Rock are debateable. they are all eliminates which makes them all very height dependant. Aug 4, 2003


  • **

v-3 Jul 22, 2003
Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA
 
Aron Quiter   Oakland, CA  
 
You guys CAN vote on the ratings, which will upgrade it or downgrade it. You can also vote on the stars for the route. From the "comment form", which is reached by clicking on "add a comment" on any route, click on advanced. This give you tons of ways that you can directly change how the route is rated on the site. Jul 20, 2003
Didnt anyone read the "don't be a jerk" guideline? V1+? Give me a f'n break. Downrating it after you have it wired is poor form. Jul 19, 2003
The crux is a VERY slipery left hand slopper/pinch grip that is a difficult hold if your hand is not large, and it is a loooong layback/reach for shorter climbers. V-3 seems like a reasonable rating. Jul 16, 2003
I agree, the flake is defnitely not a V4, V1+ sounds about right. Thats what I figure, the hardest problem I've ever finished was V2, and that was harder than the flake. Nov 7, 2002
This is definitely NOT a V4. Maybe a V2...probably a V1+ Sep 11, 2002